Paris produced the perfect elixir for elegant luxury: rich materials, refined tailoring and a sophisticated tone.
Valentino: When the elements are expertly mixed, Planet Valentino is a covetable destination. And, for fall, his elixir of lace, embroidery, bows and flounces blended together into the right glamorous magic — just the stuff to entrance the gals. Few designers identify as closely with their customers’ lifestyles and aspirations as Val. (Doesn’t he set one of the best jet-setting examples?) So Valentino transports you into a wealthy, rarified world. The trip this season began in black and white, as a gaggle of models gathered on an elevated stage before descending a steep flight of stairs in, say, a light black A-line skirt or slim wool trousers, all paired with a flirty blouson or a coat closed with a bow.
This was the designer at his controlled best, plying years of accumulated chic into beautiful, approachable clothes, from an ivory-and-black jacquard coat to a black suede skirt with crocodile insets. Rich, you say? Certainly, but a girl can’t live on black and white alone. So out came a green mohair jacket, an embroidered gold lace shirt or a sheer chiffon blouse in eggplant. Then the lights dimmed, and graffiti was projected onto the staircase to herald a plethora of sporty looks printed with colorful Jean-Michel Basquiat patterns. Of course, Valentino would never be complete without a dose of evening gear: silk georgette confections with embroidered tulle; a white chiffon skirt glimmering with black sequins, and dresses with tiers of lace ruffles were among the standouts. And four dresses in the designer’s signature red, either with ruffles, draped or with a satin shawl, brought the show to an appropriate end. How very Valentino.
Hermès: Jean Paul Gaultier hit all the right notes in his fifth outing for Hermès, making it easily his best collection for the house to date. Simply put, this is what Hermès should be: uberluxury served up with quiet elegance and just a soupçon of Parisian chic. It’s not surprising that Gaultier’s success comes during this season, since winter is the best time to truly flex the muscles of a luxury house with an aristocratic sporting heritage. The designer made ample use of an array of sumptuous materials meant for battling the bitterest of seasons. Fur and leather capes, some hooded, were layered on top of leather vests and cashmere knits. Necks were swallowed up in chunky, high-necked sweaters and scarves. Gaultier worked a refined, tailored silhouette with pleated, cuffed trousers; skirt suits, and belted coats. It was all delivered with a well-bred, classic chic befitting this venerable house. And while Hermès has no need for youthful flash, one could easily see a young starlet tossing on one of Gaultier’s adorable Fair Isle cardigans or his fox bomber with knit cuffs to grab her Starbucks. Gaultier is riding high this season.
A Stella McCartney sketch of a custom dress made from protein-based silk in partnership with biotech lab Bolt Threads. The dress will be displayed at The Museum of Modern Art's upcoming design exhibition, "Items: Is Fashion Modern?"