Prada: The reign of the lady is officially over. Whatever doubts that may have lingered on that point were squelched definitively by Miuccia Prada, whose fall collection was as spectacularly beautiful as it was bold.
Prada put forth an audacious vision of fall's wrapped-up, toughed-up aesthetic. Hers is overtly chic, a fascinating, almost impossibly deft fusion of refined and raw elements in which each held equal sway. She showed against Rem Koolhaus projections of jungle scenes fading in and out of various cityscapes in what seemed almost too-obvious juxtaposition: fashion for an urban jungle. But if the projection fits ... And it did.
"It's time to go back to the streets of the world, showing anger and being a little bit savage, to be ready for life," she said after the show. If that is throwing down a fashion gauntlet of sorts, Prada devotees the world over will pounce to pick it up. The clothes, sensual in their sobriety, were rooted in Japanese, sports and medieval warrior references with no color and almost no embellishment — save for patches of rugged, uncut fur that delivered the primal punch. Almost everything was black or dark gray, with an insert or two of dark brown at the end. The looks emerged as clean, strong, uncluttered layers finished with spectacular outerwear, often a luxed-up parka or stadium coat that typically sported fur somewhere — on hoods, patch pockets, sleeves, or a skunk-like panel in back. Everything was sturdy — coats, knits, shoes, bags, even the lingerie, heavily constructed black bras worn over thick gray sweaters.
A flourish of styling, yes. But a flourish with a message in that fine line between corsetry and body armor. "I'm tired of all that passive, sweet femininity that tries to appeal to everybody," Prada said. "We women should go back to some strength."
Fashion has long awaited — and needed — so bold a battle cry, lest the demon boredom infiltrate its realm. With Prada leading the charge with such confidence and brilliance, it doesn't have a chance.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion