Prada: The reign of the lady is officially over. Whatever doubts that may have lingered on that point were squelched definitively by Miuccia Prada, whose fall collection was as spectacularly beautiful as it was bold.
Prada put forth an audacious vision of fall's wrapped-up, toughed-up aesthetic. Hers is overtly chic, a fascinating, almost impossibly deft fusion of refined and raw elements in which each held equal sway. She showed against Rem Koolhaus projections of jungle scenes fading in and out of various cityscapes in what seemed almost too-obvious juxtaposition: fashion for an urban jungle. But if the projection fits ... And it did.
"It's time to go back to the streets of the world, showing anger and being a little bit savage, to be ready for life," she said after the show. If that is throwing down a fashion gauntlet of sorts, Prada devotees the world over will pounce to pick it up. The clothes, sensual in their sobriety, were rooted in Japanese, sports and medieval warrior references with no color and almost no embellishment — save for patches of rugged, uncut fur that delivered the primal punch. Almost everything was black or dark gray, with an insert or two of dark brown at the end. The looks emerged as clean, strong, uncluttered layers finished with spectacular outerwear, often a luxed-up parka or stadium coat that typically sported fur somewhere — on hoods, patch pockets, sleeves, or a skunk-like panel in back. Everything was sturdy — coats, knits, shoes, bags, even the lingerie, heavily constructed black bras worn over thick gray sweaters.
A flourish of styling, yes. But a flourish with a message in that fine line between corsetry and body armor. "I'm tired of all that passive, sweet femininity that tries to appeal to everybody," Prada said. "We women should go back to some strength."
Fashion has long awaited — and needed — so bold a battle cry, lest the demon boredom infiltrate its realm. With Prada leading the charge with such confidence and brilliance, it doesn't have a chance.
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)