There have been some unexpected developments as the New York collections rolled along. Oscar de la Renta, for example, went surprisingly sporty while Carolina Herrera celebrated Hitchcock’s favorite ladies and Diane Von Furstenberg indulged in a little androgyny.

Oscar de la Renta: Everybody knows Oscar de la Renta is fashion’s most debonair ladies’ man, but who figured he was so nimble a gymnast? The word’s out now, because in the collection he showed on Monday, de la Renta performed a deft balancing act, playing with style and savvy to both sides of that two-tier audience so coveted these days by designers of a certain age — the mother-daughter set. Oscar will keep both looking lovely this fall.

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