Hussein Chalayan: Beautiful though some of his melancholy deconstructed collections were, at last Hussein Chalayan gave himself — and his audience — a break. During the late Nineties, fashion’s bling-bling years, he was there to remind us of life’s untidy side. But now, his dark vision seems to have brightened up considerably.

Using the image of a jet plane parked on the tarmac as a backdrop, his apparently sunny collection was an ode to chic tourists. And no, the terms chic and tourist are not mutually exclusive. She’s packed her bags with tropical play clothes, including a slew of tie tops and short-shorts for daytime adventuring, and with demure cocktail dresses for sampling the local nightlife. Over the course of half a dozen exits, clean khaki minidresses built like overalls gradually morphed into garden party dresses cut in faded antique florals. One gently deconstructed deb dress came in prissy white, while a slim frock with bows at the shoulders was printed with positively preppy palm trees.

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