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Chloé

One might have understood, if not exactly forgiven, had Yvan Mispelaere decided to phone in his last collection for Chloé.

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One might have understood, if not exactly forgiven, had Yvan Mispelaere decided to phone in his last collection for Chloé, where he’s been the interim team leader for some time.

But rather, in his finale for the house, he turned in another fine continuation of the Phoebe Philo tone, which is to say one that radiates youthful charm.

Though program notes cited a Gloria Vanderbilt inspiration, the connection seemed vague. But there was an abundance of the fresh-scrubbed side of the Seventies in loose, two-tone dresses, jumpers and pleasant sportswear combos.

Countering these spare looks, quilt motifs and busy decorative collages provided a trace of good-girl-goes-boho.

While it all looked plenty appealing, one does wonder at what point the cute factor becomes antithetical to Chloé’s prices. Perhaps now, since the house is set for another reinvention under incoming designer Paulo Melin Andersson, who must put his own mark on the label while trying to hold on to the cachet achieved under Philo.

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