John Galliano is not a halfway kind of guy. When he grasps a motif, he runs with it. After years of fielding criticism for those wondrous theatrical extravaganzas in which he often gave not a whit of attention to real clothes, he has now swung over — all the way over — to the other side. Putting the focus on the merch was the reason he took his resort collection to New York, to great fanfare, last May; now, he’s brought the notion to Paris.
The Christian Dior collection he showed on Tuesday night was all about real clothes for real stores — and not just in the fashion capitals — a point Galliano delivered with blunt clarity and a great big “take that” to his critics.
His spring message was concise: a smart, discreet suit for day, a beautifully draped dress for night. Despite their aura of reserve courtesy of subtle, neutral-toned fabrics, the suits bore considerable interest, an arm slit on one, a bold rounded shoulder on another and often, a measure of tone-on-tone embroidery defining the jacket. These looked refined and completely above the fashion fray, clothes for women who care far more about dressing well than looking trendy.
Galliano made the transition into evening with white jersey pieces embellished with small metal hoops and with sweet little embroidered dresses. As for his grandest looks, relative to the lavishness that once commanded even his ready-to-wear runways, these, too, radiated calm, yet with impeccable intricacies of cut and flou delicately sprinkled with crystals and beading.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)