PARIS -- Christian Lacroix has a million and one things to do -- most pressingly, the winter couture collection he will present here July 9. "All the sketches are done, but we have still not done fittings," he confessed sheepishly Tuesday over coffee...
PARIS -- Christian Lacroix has a million and one things to do -- most pressingly, the winter couture collection he will present here July 9. "All the sketches are done, but we have still not done fittings," he confessed sheepishly Tuesday over coffee at the Bristol Hotel here. "We will start today."And then, of course, he also has this other design project known as Pucci -- the famous Florentine fashion house that his backer, luxury giant LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has charged him with rejuvenating. LVMH bought control of the jet-set label in 2000; annual sales are about $15 million. Lacroix was named Pucci's artistic director last April, succeeding Julio Espada, and will show his first collection in Milan this fall.But instead of feeling overwhelmed or daunted by his enormous workload, Lacroix is newly energized, describing the Pucci challenge as a "pleasure." Just back from his first visit to the Pucci palazzo in Florence and its factory in Bologna, Lacroix shared his first impressions with WWD and gave a thumbnail sketch of his plans for the house."For me, it's something other than just fashion," he said, dressed in a cheerful gingham suit and shirt with New Balance sneakers. "For me, it's working on a way of life much more than trends. It's a brand that has to have its own world. It's like Hermes. It's an attitude."Hardly a stranger to the Pucci world of silk jersey and graphic prints, Lacroix comes to the job with a hefty admiration for its late founder, Emilio Pucci, and a long fascination with his design history. A pilot and sportsman, Pucci showed his first collection of skiwear in 1947 and founded his house a few years later.Lacroix recalled his visit to a Pucci retrospective in Florence in 1996, which opened his eyes to the early figurative style of Pucci prints. "There were also all these handpainted things he did that were the real start for the prints we know," he said.Even though he now has access to the house's vast archives, which span complete collections, fabric samples and paper documentation galore, Lacroix said he plans to dip into it rarely, selectively, and only as his fashion instincts guide him. On his first visit, he requested only a few looks and fabrics be brought up."I'm not here to do vintage," he stressed. "Why not have a corner with real vintage in any boutique? Pucci was so modern. Only a few people know he did a logo for NASA [the Apollo 15 moon mission] and that he designed a car [the Emilio Pucci Lincoln Continental Mark V]. I love this modern approach. The most modern spirit in the work is this sportswear idea, even for people who don't do any sports. Yes, you can have a foot in the past, but you have to plant one foot in the future, too."That's why Lacroix arrived in Florence with specific "impulses" for his first collection. He wanted to do a bicolor print, and behold, the house had a perfect one from the milestone 1954 "Palio" collection that won Pucci an award from Neiman Marcus. Lacroix is also drawing inspiration from the family crest, which has a moors' head, and also the pageantry surrounding the horse races in Tuscany and Sienna that originally inspired the Palio range."As a designer, you have to trust your gut. The first impulse is always the right one," he explained. "You have to be very clear in your mind [about what you want to do] before you go into the archive, or you could be swallowed by it."Lacroix said one of his future challenges at Pucci would be to create a winter image for a brand with "more of a summer feeling." And he sees lots of other opportunities for expansion. For example, "I would love men's wear: shirts, ties and why not even underwear?" he asked.At present, Lacroix is directing his efforts on the spring-summer collection, which will be shown to retailers beginning next month. Although it was already in progress when he arrived at the house, Lacroix chose new prints and colors and submitted fresh sketches. He assured that certain signatures of the line will be preserved -- the blouses, Capri pants, the silk jersey -- but with a new vision.Lacroix recognizes the need to make a big splash at Pucci. Given his status as one of Paris' star couturiers, his audience has high expectations. And so does he."Just to go step-by-step carefully would be wrong. I think that we will have to be quite strong in October," he said. "We want to mix the future and the past. We are very lucky to have a brand that is still appealing for sophisticated ladies, and also, we hope, the newcomers.""
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For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews