CKI Reschedules Show Time, Putting Out Other Designers
NEW YORK — Calvin Klein Inc. set the fashion calendar in a scramble on Friday when its designer made the decision to move its runway show from Tuesday evening to Thursday at 4 p.m. — without mentioning it to the designer who had already...
NEW YORK — Calvin Klein Inc. set the fashion calendar in a scramble on Friday when its designer made the decision to move its runway show from Tuesday evening to Thursday at 4 p.m. — without mentioning it to the designer who had already planned to show then.
Several designers were upset by the company’s last-minute decision to reschedule its runway show to a time space originally held by James Coviello. In response, Coviello, Daryl Kerrigan, Roland Mouret and men’s wear designer Yoko Devereaux have changed or are considering a change in their time slots. Shows are sometimes the one big splurge for firms without the clout behind Calvin Klein, now owned by Phillips-Van Heusen.
“It’s so inconsiderate, it’s beyond belief for them to do this and not even recognize someone else is showing at the same time,” said Coviello, who moved his show up an hour, after learning Klein’s new slot conflicted with his.
Fern Mallis, executive director of 7th on Sixth, which produces Olympus Fashion Week, said, “It’s very disappointing when designers move at the last minute, after we’ve tried to make a coordinated schedule. And for people to decide to switch, especially when they’re stepping onto a show that has already been scheduled, is unfair. For smaller designers, these shows can make or break their careers.”
Calvin Klein designer Francisco Costa said on Friday, “Basically, we made the decision last night after getting an update on deliveries. We’ve had delays because of major storms in Italy.” Calvin Klein will now show at 4 p.m. on Thursday, while Coviello has moved his show to 3 p.m. that day. (Roland Mouret, who was supposed to show at that time, took Klein’s original time slot of 6 p.m. on Tuesday.)
Costa said about 60 percent of the collection has yet to arrive, including numerous core pieces around which the collection revolves.
“We’ve made the decision, now we have to move on. That’s it,” he said. “Logistically, it’s easier. [Moving to Thursday] gives me a little more time to refine things, to look at things properly in a wiser way.”According to a Calvin Klein spokeswoman, the firm notified 7th on Sixth and the Council of Fashion Designers of America of its intention to switch slots Thursday night. “We absolutely do not want to hurt or interfere with anyone else, so we addressed the schedule immediately,” she said.
At the time, the only show confirmed for 4 p.m. with those organizations was Coviello, who was not contacted by anyone within Calvin Klein.
In addition to Coviello, Kerrigan planned to show her Daryl K collection from 4-6 p.m. at the site of the former Daryl K store on Bond Street here. The designer recently reclaimed the space she had there a few years ago. Kerrigan is considering an adjustment with that time, but had not decided at press time.
“I was thinking he could have asked me. I’m not exactly thrilled about it,” she said. “To be honest, I thought about calling him, but I doubt he would even take my call and I don’t think he would even care. He’s probably in his recliner somewhere.”
On the other hand, Kerrigan said, “I don’t think you can take these things too seriously. I’m just really happy to have my shop back. Whatever happens, happens.”
The Fashion Calendar lists two other 4 p.m. shows, Yoko Devereaux and Famura. Famura plans to go ahead with its show at Splashlight Studios as planned, according to Grace Fung, who is launching the ready-to-wear collection with Naoki Kitamura.
“We can’t change the time,” Fung said. “I think we’ll be fine. We already sent the invitations to Paris and other countries. Honestly, I was a little disappointed but that’s the world we live in.”
Devereaux creative director Andy Salzer said, “Going head-to-head with Calvin Klein is not a good position to be in. We’re small enough that if we have to switch the show, I can probably finagle that.”
Coviello has also expressed concern about model availability. But according to the Klein spokeswoman, there should be little overlap. “We usually have a fairly unique casting, aside from a few major girls,” she said.Having spent two weeks casting for the show, Coviello said DNA, IMG and other modeling agencies were unaware of the change until he called. He said, “As far as the models go, we’re not sure to what degree this will affect us.”
While some are thinking big, others are thinking small. Imitation of Christ plans to host its smallest show ever at Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn’s Salon 94 at 12 East 94th Street. Located in Rohatyn’s Carnegie Hill home, the 1,500-square-foot space seats just 45, quite a drop compared with the hundreds that used to pour into Imitation of Christ shows.
Designer Tara Subkoff said she loved the idea of a salon, a meeting of the minds among designers, artists and poets. Conceptual artist Paula Hayes’ “Forest” exhibition at Salon 94 is the ideal backdrop, she said.
“We keep doing these shows that are very large and almost like a circus. I decided to just have the people who absolutely need to be there,” Subkoff said. “It’s more about having the people who support the collection.”
Carlos Miele has moved his show from Tuesday night in the tents to Thursday night at Gotham Hall at 7:30 p.m., to try to avoid losing guests to Louis Vuitton’s opening night bash for its Fifth Avenue store. Naomi Campbell, who will walk in his show and whose public relations company is handling the event, suggested changing the date, he said.
While Miele is relieved, Coviello is still steamed.
“It’s David versus Goliath. The giant against the guy with the slingshot,” Coviello said. “Work is supposedly a community, but there’s no reflection of that.”
Kal Ruttenstein, senior vice president of fashion direction at Bloomingdale’s, called Coviello Friday to say he would not be at the show for the first time, as planned, Coviello said. “That was a real bummer,” he said.
In the end, it could all be a case of fashion karma. In the fall of 2002, Coviello was also one of 10 American designers who scheduled their fashion shows for the last day of the London collections. Some saw the move as a virtual act of treason against their London counterparts, who after months of international debate, had relocated their shows on the calendar.
Alberta Ferretti's "Rainbow Week" sweaters are back. The designer closed her #MFW show with a few day-of-the-week sweaters, which first debuted on the catwalk last January as part of the pre-fall 2017 collection. #wwdfashion (📷: @delphineachard)