It was like a breath of fresh air as clean-cut looks such as shift dresses, man-tailored shirts and sharp trenches breezed through Milan.
Bottega Veneta: Tomas Maier's Bottega Veneta collection wafted down the runway with an air of innocence, but his intricate detailing was anything but naive. The look was breezy, the tailoring sophisticated. And with a sure hand, Maier had designed his best collection since joining the house four years ago.
"I want the clothes to look as simple as possible, and I want everything to be light," Maier said before the show. To that end, he showed scores of dresses in a variety of styles — from a sundress in men's shirting to a white dress streaked down the front with vivid color to a plissé number in fluid silk jersey to pieces layered with Chantilly lace. "The idea of waking up in the morning and wearing one single piece is so appealing," he explained.
Not even camp runway antics — models who reached up to give their bouncy locks a coy flip — could detract from the collection's appeal. The brand's sales figures prove that Maier gives good merch, and there was plenty to choose from. It was like a Milanese show of old: smart leather and suede jackets, for which Maier has a natural affinity, proper tailoring and unabashedly feminine clothes. He even sent out a few evening gowns. Ballgowns from Bottega? If Maier has his way, it might not be such a far-fetched notion.
Jil Sander: New eras are something of a trend in Milan, with one starting at Gucci and another about to begin at Jil Sander. In anticipation of Raf Simons' first women's show in March, trusty Team turned out its final collection for the house, a quiet beauty in which sporty chic achieved a patrician elegance.
Decorative minimalism made one of its earliest presentations last season at Sander, and reappeared here as a breath of very fresh air after the glut of mundane prettiness being churned out elsewhere this week. A crisp beige shirt got multiple white mini pockets lined up in a row, shift dresses had hoods tacked onto their shoulders and a full-skirted frock got into a twist from seemingly random strips of buttons. A palette of mostly whites and pale neutrals fueled the crisp serenity, with occasional shots of color for pop. And if, in one case — ivory pants with big, square white patches on the legs worn with a single-cable turtleneck — the breeze seemed to have wafted over from former Prada Group colleague Helmut Lang, it still felt fresh.Yet in the end, this was a lame duck effort. Whether its Sander-like attitude resonates at all with Simons remains to be seen. But get ready for Jil Sander, Take Four. Or is it Five?
Moschino: Sometimes a designer gets tired of trotting the globe, and yearns for a respite in the cozy environs of home base. That must be the case for Moschino's creative director, Rossella Jardini, whose spring collection paid homage to the house's greatest hits. Working in an almost completely black-and-white palette, Jardini's romp was ripe with Moschino classics, most in a full-skirted Fifties silhouette. A sharp black trench was cut away to reveal an oversized black-and-white gingham skirt, while dresses sported pearl strands or big bow prints. Trompe l'oeil, another staple chez Moschino, was everywhere, from printed tiers on a skirt to cute detailing as a sash on a white maillot. The effect was charming, though repetitive, and at the end of the day, the fresher looks, such as a crisp pleated front shirtdress with a pearl- and brooch-embellished cardigan were the most covetable.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews