It was like a breath of fresh air as clean-cut looks such as shift dresses, man-tailored shirts and sharp trenches breezed through Milan.
Bottega Veneta: Tomas Maier's Bottega Veneta collection wafted down the runway with an air of innocence, but his intricate detailing was anything but naive. The look was breezy, the tailoring sophisticated. And with a sure hand, Maier had designed his best collection since joining the house four years ago.
"I want the clothes to look as simple as possible, and I want everything to be light," Maier said before the show. To that end, he showed scores of dresses in a variety of styles — from a sundress in men's shirting to a white dress streaked down the front with vivid color to a plissé number in fluid silk jersey to pieces layered with Chantilly lace. "The idea of waking up in the morning and wearing one single piece is so appealing," he explained.
Not even camp runway antics — models who reached up to give their bouncy locks a coy flip — could detract from the collection's appeal. The brand's sales figures prove that Maier gives good merch, and there was plenty to choose from. It was like a Milanese show of old: smart leather and suede jackets, for which Maier has a natural affinity, proper tailoring and unabashedly feminine clothes. He even sent out a few evening gowns. Ballgowns from Bottega? If Maier has his way, it might not be such a far-fetched notion.
Jil Sander: New eras are something of a trend in Milan, with one starting at Gucci and another about to begin at Jil Sander. In anticipation of Raf Simons' first women's show in March, trusty Team turned out its final collection for the house, a quiet beauty in which sporty chic achieved a patrician elegance.
Decorative minimalism made one of its earliest presentations last season at Sander, and reappeared here as a breath of very fresh air after the glut of mundane prettiness being churned out elsewhere this week. A crisp beige shirt got multiple white mini pockets lined up in a row, shift dresses had hoods tacked onto their shoulders and a full-skirted frock got into a twist from seemingly random strips of buttons. A palette of mostly whites and pale neutrals fueled the crisp serenity, with occasional shots of color for pop. And if, in one case — ivory pants with big, square white patches on the legs worn with a single-cable turtleneck — the breeze seemed to have wafted over from former Prada Group colleague Helmut Lang, it still felt fresh.Yet in the end, this was a lame duck effort. Whether its Sander-like attitude resonates at all with Simons remains to be seen. But get ready for Jil Sander, Take Four. Or is it Five?
Moschino: Sometimes a designer gets tired of trotting the globe, and yearns for a respite in the cozy environs of home base. That must be the case for Moschino's creative director, Rossella Jardini, whose spring collection paid homage to the house's greatest hits. Working in an almost completely black-and-white palette, Jardini's romp was ripe with Moschino classics, most in a full-skirted Fifties silhouette. A sharp black trench was cut away to reveal an oversized black-and-white gingham skirt, while dresses sported pearl strands or big bow prints. Trompe l'oeil, another staple chez Moschino, was everywhere, from printed tiers on a skirt to cute detailing as a sash on a white maillot. The effect was charming, though repetitive, and at the end of the day, the fresher looks, such as a crisp pleated front shirtdress with a pearl- and brooch-embellished cardigan were the most covetable.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)