It was like a breath of fresh air as clean-cut looks such as shift dresses, man-tailored shirts and sharp trenches breezed through Milan.
Bottega Veneta: Tomas Maier's Bottega Veneta collection wafted down the runway with an air of innocence, but his intricate detailing was anything but naive. The look was breezy, the tailoring sophisticated. And with a sure hand, Maier had designed his best collection since joining the house four years ago.
"I want the clothes to look as simple as possible, and I want everything to be light," Maier said before the show. To that end, he showed scores of dresses in a variety of styles — from a sundress in men's shirting to a white dress streaked down the front with vivid color to a plissé number in fluid silk jersey to pieces layered with Chantilly lace. "The idea of waking up in the morning and wearing one single piece is so appealing," he explained.
Not even camp runway antics — models who reached up to give their bouncy locks a coy flip — could detract from the collection's appeal. The brand's sales figures prove that Maier gives good merch, and there was plenty to choose from. It was like a Milanese show of old: smart leather and suede jackets, for which Maier has a natural affinity, proper tailoring and unabashedly feminine clothes. He even sent out a few evening gowns. Ballgowns from Bottega? If Maier has his way, it might not be such a far-fetched notion.
Jil Sander: New eras are something of a trend in Milan, with one starting at Gucci and another about to begin at Jil Sander. In anticipation of Raf Simons' first women's show in March, trusty Team turned out its final collection for the house, a quiet beauty in which sporty chic achieved a patrician elegance.
Decorative minimalism made one of its earliest presentations last season at Sander, and reappeared here as a breath of very fresh air after the glut of mundane prettiness being churned out elsewhere this week. A crisp beige shirt got multiple white mini pockets lined up in a row, shift dresses had hoods tacked onto their shoulders and a full-skirted frock got into a twist from seemingly random strips of buttons. A palette of mostly whites and pale neutrals fueled the crisp serenity, with occasional shots of color for pop. And if, in one case — ivory pants with big, square white patches on the legs worn with a single-cable turtleneck — the breeze seemed to have wafted over from former Prada Group colleague Helmut Lang, it still felt fresh.Yet in the end, this was a lame duck effort. Whether its Sander-like attitude resonates at all with Simons remains to be seen. But get ready for Jil Sander, Take Four. Or is it Five?
Moschino: Sometimes a designer gets tired of trotting the globe, and yearns for a respite in the cozy environs of home base. That must be the case for Moschino's creative director, Rossella Jardini, whose spring collection paid homage to the house's greatest hits. Working in an almost completely black-and-white palette, Jardini's romp was ripe with Moschino classics, most in a full-skirted Fifties silhouette. A sharp black trench was cut away to reveal an oversized black-and-white gingham skirt, while dresses sported pearl strands or big bow prints. Trompe l'oeil, another staple chez Moschino, was everywhere, from printed tiers on a skirt to cute detailing as a sash on a white maillot. The effect was charming, though repetitive, and at the end of the day, the fresher looks, such as a crisp pleated front shirtdress with a pearl- and brooch-embellished cardigan were the most covetable.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia