Closing Statements – Chado Ralph Rucci, Carmen Marc Valvo, Peter Som, Nanette Lepore and Wunderkind
And so the fashion machine rolled to a close…Chado’s Ralph Rucci and Nanette Lepore did their respective things…Carmen Marc Valvo surprised everyone with fabulous swimsuits…Peter Som journeyed to northern California…and,...
And so the fashion machine rolled to a close…Chado’s Ralph Rucci and Nanette Lepore did their respective things…Carmen Marc Valvo surprised everyone with fabulous swimsuits…Peter Som journeyed to northern California…and, after three years away, Wolfgang Joop returned to the runways with Wunderkind.Chado Ralph Rucci: No surprises here. And no trends du jour. They simply don’t exist in Ralph Rucci’s rarefied world. But as it is, the standard accolades will have to do. You have to admire a guy like Rucci, who doggedly sticks to his lofty ideals and delivers exquisitely crafted clothes, some of which could hang in a museum. He never runs out of interesting ways to detail, cut out and seam his beautiful fabrics and leathers. This season’s feat was working strips of leather, alligator and patent leather every which way on tulle, and shaping it into little cocktail dresses, or the bodice of an elaborate duchesse satin gown. A simple sleeveless sheath in ecru alligator was the best of these.But at times, things can get a bit overwrought chez Rucci. Many of the pieces, as the cliche goes, “wear the woman.” But, hey, his diehard fans like it that way, and they underscored their devotion at his show by giving him a standing ovation. Rucci also played with some down-to-earth sporty looks. After all, the Rucci woman does indulge in some casual downtime. What looked best were the simple sweaters, one in apple green cashmere over white lambskin jeans or the wonderful ivory twinset with a pleated back cardigan over pale aqua lambsuede jeans. For evening, the short winners were the black double-faced wool sheath with finely braided leather trim and another sheath with allover beading inspired by a Japanese basket detail. The most restrained of the longer looks were beauties: a black hammered bias satin gown detailed in braided brown satin and a strip of black wood embroidery, and a jersey gown in black and white, accented brilliantly in chartreuse. All delivered to the beat of a different drummer.Carmen Marc Valvo: Thank god for swimsuits. In a season in which even some of the best collections showed all manner of romantic, Stevie Nicks-inspired fare that seemed to blur together, swimwear was a refreshing sight. And while bathing beauties were not the point of Carmen Marc Valvo’s collection, they exemplified the best elements of his show — licensees should take note. They were casually glamorous, as in his parrot-and-tulip-printed bikini and tunic, and the long beaded printed chiffon kimono worn over the sleek white bikini was a knockout.As for the the rest of the collection, what stood out were the separates, such as the little coral-beaded cami and red suede shirt and a wide beaded belt worn over a long printed silk chiffon, ruffle-backed skirt. But, lest we forget, Valvo built his reputation with his dresses, and while they didn’t make the biggest impact this time around, there were a few standouts, such as his tea-length slip version of the parrot-printed silk chiffon, sashed boldly at the waist in an olive pleated satin.Peter Som: All about ease. That seems to be Peter Som’s mantra when he is at his best. But happily, in Som’s world, easy doesn’t mean sloppy, but rather effortless glamour. After fall’s stroll in the nutty blue-blood environs of “Grey Gardens,” the designer traveled cross-country to California. Northern, natch. You’ll find no “Baywatch” babes here. Instead, Som’s girl is the unpretentious but pretty-loving sort who is equally comfortable in his trousers or slouchy gauchos as she is in a floral lamé halter dress. Knowing that a girl should never look like she’s trying too hard, he balanced the glitz of a pearl-encrusted jacket cuff by cutting the piece in a natural-colored silk burlap — a wonderfully rustic fabric he used often. Som knocked the preciousness out of lovely pale chiffons with an enzyme wash and by finding a tweed that looked sun-bleached. Even the overt femininity of a curve-hugging ruffle skirt was taken down a notch in stonewashed khaki. And what does this gal wear when the night turns cool? Som offered a few lovely suggestions: Throw on a cashmere boyfriend-style cardigan, or better yet, that delicately embroidered filigree jacket, and drive into town.Nanette Lepore: Nanette Lepore took a walk on the bohemian side for spring, featuring a sassy lineup of the little tops and frocks that she does best. Even her denim had some spice this season and it looked great when paired with a sweet feather print, ruffled top or the cute cashmere cardigan with a dove-printed silk front. Lepore also injected an organic quality into the collection with wood-beaded belts and long beaded necklaces. She cited the poet lifestyle as her point of reference, thus the handful of sweet poet’s tops with folksy embroideries paired with flutter skirts. And she layered her signature girly dresses with little short-sleeved sweater boleros for a laid-back effect. Sure there were some misses — but every collection has them, right? — and overall, this was good, old Lepore fun.Wunderkind: Three years after selling his eponymous German-based company and taking time off from fashion, Wolfgang Joop returned to the tents Tuesday night with Wunderkind. It has a more refined and detailed look than his previous work, which he felt ran too mainstream. So comparatively, the new line has more polish and a little more luxe, such as the silver and gold silk brocade that he cut into sharp jackets — the shrunken frock coat and crisp blazer, worn with hip-slung wide-legged jeans. An intricately seamed white jacket and coat and asymmetrically draped skirt were terrifically fresh when cut from delicate yet disheveled paper tweed backed with cotton batiste. Joop made a white silk cocktail frock sparkle with tons of hand-beading, but a gown of the same seemed a tad ill-fitting. The sober styling and the limited lineup left some in the audience wanting more. But you know what they say — there’s more back in the showroom, including some artsy georgette dresses and flirty fur jackets that would appeal to that chic, uptown girl.
“I grew up in New York but I hadn’t really experienced the city in any type of touristy way…This was probably the first museum I really explored and took the time to see,” said @haileybaldwin of the @whitneymuseum. On Tuesday night, Baldwin was joined by Jemima Kirke and more at the annual Whitney Museum Gala and Studio Party, which honored Lorna Simpson, Joanne Leonhardt Cassullo and Beth Rudin DeWoody. See more photos on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
Displayed starting this week at the @fashiontextilemuseum: An exhibition on designer @orlakiely titled “Orla Kiely: A Life in Pattern,” which spans two decades and contains more than 150 pieces. “I want people to come away loving pattern and print. It’s something that makes you feel so good,” said the designer during a preview of the exhibit. Also on show are mood boards, samples, sketches and more. Head to WWD.com to see more photos. #wwdfashion
Exclusive: @dsquared2 signs fragrance licensing agreement with Euroitalia, with the first effort of the new partnership being unveiled in September. The brand will launch two scents – one for men and one for women – in Italy. Read our interview with designer Dean and Dan Caten on WWD.com. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@louisvuitton has officially renewed Nicolas Ghesquière’s contract as artistic director of women's collections. "I am very pleased to open the next chapter of the story I started with Louis Vuitton almost 5 years ago," said Ghesquière, who first signed on to design the French luxury brand's women's line in 2013. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
“I learned then and there that I had to figure out a way in life to maintain and preserve my sense of pride when I felt good about what I did or what I represented or created,” said @saintrecords on how being bullied for wearing capri pants inspired her to be the artist she is today. Knowles was at the 70th Parsons Benefit last night where she outbid the room for a Dapper Dan customized @gucci experience. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
“There’s this amazing braintrust of people who know the whole universe so well. So we talked to them and they gave us more input,” said actor Alden Ehrenreich on playing the young Han Solo in “Solo: A Star Wars Story.” The cast was at NYC’s SVA Theatre last night for an advanced screening of the film, which hits theaters this week. #wwdeye #starwars #hansolo (📷: @aurorarosedecrosta)
@asaprocky spent nearly two hours in a Plexiglas box Sunday night at @sothebys putting himself through a series of “tests” to demonstrate the process of completing his new album called “Testing.” Get all the details and see all the pictures on WWD.com. #wwdeye
“I’ve struggled my whole life to find a bathing suit that fits me that doesn’t look like a maternity bra. I’m proud of the line because it’s an accurate representation of me rather than me putting on someone else’s clothes,” says @atlantabean of her swimwear collaboration with @piaarrobio, LPA X ATL. The two decided on a swimwear collab and increased the industry standard size for the pieces. Read more about the line — and our interview with de Cadenet Taylor and Arrobio — on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Dan Doperalski)