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Contemporary’s Up-And-Comers

The Design Gallery debuts at WWDMAGIC with a dozen-plus vendors.<br><br><br><br>This WWDMAGIC installment marks the launch of the Design Gallery, a special addition created for the category that will be located in the heart of the contemporary...

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The Design Gallery debuts at WWDMAGIC with a dozen-plus vendors.

This WWDMAGIC installment marks the launch of the Design Gallery, a special addition created for the category that will be located in the heart of the contemporary section, featuring 12 lines selected by jury: Single, Sanctuary, Marithé & François Girbaud, Hype, For Joseph, Goa, H. Starlett, Plenty by Tracy Reese, Illia, Ruth, Ella Moss and Weston Wear.

Expect to see fall, holiday and spring trends that steer clear of mainstream hippie and bohemian looks, focusing instead on preppy themes and casualwear.

Here, a preview of the lines featured in the Design Gallery:

l Comfort is the prevailing theme at Los Angles–based Ella Moss, where designer Pamela Protzel concentrates on “a quirky Asian theme” this season, through subtle accents such as rounded hems, button detailing and wrap styles. Highlights include wide-legged “judo pants” with a thick waist tie and, for resort, a tropical, kimono-style wrap dress.

In a nod to urban trends, Protzel offers relaxed, military-inspired wear in an active group consisting of fleece tops and matching sweats.

“All garments are dyed, beaten up fabrics that are cozy and comfy,” said Protzel, who uses cotton, fleece and handkerchief-dyed linen in navy, army green, tangerine and raspberry.

Floral prints are updated with pinstripes and pockets and on overdyed T-shirts, lacy Ts and camisoles. Wholesale prices start at $24 for tops, and bottoms range from $35 to $49.

l “Clever dressing is going to swing back, stressing individual style and creativity,” noted Tracy Reese of New York–based Plenty by Tracy Reese.

Though ethnic items such as silk-printed harem pants have their place this spring, Reese is concentrating on looks that spin off of preppy themes, matching pants with classic polo Ts or athletic racer-back tanks.

As always, Plenty provides twists on classic denim, providing plenty of skirts and pants with embroidery, stripes and other embellishments. Tank tops and T-shirts are priced wholesale from $18 to $22; pants run between $55 to $75.

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l At H. Starlet, a florally inspired femininity reigns supreme for fall, holiday and spring collections. After building a reputation for Swarovski crystal-adorned clothing, the Los Angeles brand is moving forward with tops sporting Italian-made flower cutouts.

Fall II’s “hippie love” group presents earthy orange, blue and yellow on fitted sweatpants and satin-trimmed knits. Holiday and cruise bring in brighter, satin pastel tones such as pink, lavender and mint green, according to rep Kim Castelo. Other girlie touches include ties, bows, lace and ribbon detailing.

Tops — like a sheer, bell-sleeved blouse with double-layered flower cutouts — wholesale from $28 to $68. Bottoms, some featuring floral prints, range from $44 to $64.

l Relaxation is key at North Hollywood–based Sanctuary Clothing, where according to marketing director Tammy Ames, “[We] will be previewing spring in a very relaxed, casual mode.” Fabrics include surplus-washed twills, cords and poplins in a variety of sun-washed colors. Pockets, zips and multi-stitching detail complete the effect.

Top-selling wide-legged drawstring cargo pants — called “beachcombers” — reappear in new fabrications.

Wholesale prices for tops run between $29 to $39, bottoms from $36 to $59.

l The debut line of Los Angeles–based GOA (for “Good on American”) presents directional pieces such as denim bell-bottoms that are classic blue denim on the front and camel colored on the back.

Other pairings include Victorian-flavored velvet looks and embroidery on short blazers with defined shoulders and high-fitted waistlines in rich gold, burgundy and taupe.

Holiday offers a “patchwork, tapestry flair” that, according to GOA president Gillian Julius, will “be a huge trend.”

A selection of tapestry-patched vests, skirts, and bottoms are priced wholesale from $42 to $85. Jeans run wholesale between $52 and $62, jackets $72 to $82.

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