By  on September 12, 2005

NEW YORK — Fashion designers can't survive on clothes alone. In this age of adornment, many of the fashion force have turned to their accessories counterparts to create some ornate accoutrements that will likely spice up runway looks for spring.

Robert Lee Morris for Donna Karan: For spring, Donna Karan's key words and ideas are "White, [the combination of] raw and refined, genius construction, eclectic and ephemeral," according to jewelry designer and sculptor Robert Lee Morris, who collaborated with Karan on a collection of necklaces. The necklaces are made of mother-of-pearl, silver, metals with an oxide or patina finish and other various washed-ashore-looking materials. A standout look is the long necklace on a thin silver strand with clusters of amulets made of mother-of-pearl discs, hammered silver rings and other various materials, similar to that shown.

Gerard Yosca for Nanette Lepore: Yosca adopted a quirky, feminine take on Nanette Lepore's "Desert Glam" inspiration for the season. "There is a naïve glamour in this girl," said Yosca of Lepore's muse. His designs include long chain necklaces made of painted white metal culminating in large circular white metal filigree pendants decorated with a mélange of opaque stones in sky blue, pale yellow and peach.

V'ta for Abaeté: "These pieces are big and bold, but still feminine," said Karla Witukiewicz of her geometric necklaces for Abaeté's show. Abaeté designer Laura Poretzky's inspiration for the collection is the Brazilian film "Black Orpheus," and V'ta's collars and necklaces, made of indigenous Brazilian gemstones like labradorite, rhodochrosite and aventurine, take influence from the film's seductive tale of lovers, set in Rio di Janeiro. One style is a lime and burgundy collar of shield-shaped lemon quartz and faceted aventurine stones that are custom-cut in oblong and shield shapes.

Keds for BCBG and Zero by Maria Cornejo: Keds has gained entry to fashion's inner circle and is collaborating on runway shoes for both BCBG and Zero by Maria Cornejo, whose shows take place today and Tuesday, respectively. BCBG is sending distressed graffiti-print oxford sneakers without laces down the runway, while Zero by Maria Cornejo is going with a few styles, including skimmers in azure colored Lurex, dark brown jacquard and ballet flats with ivory ribbon ankle straps.SVDL New York for Kai Milla: Susan van der Linde, designer of millinery company SVDL New York, took Kai Milla's vision of an updated Forties glamour girl and used unusual materials like millinery-like leather and coated lace. One headband features a frothy combination of tulle with a floppy silk flower and a short veil.

Faraone & Mennella for Carolina Herrera: "The look is all about the long chains piled up with big beads on the chain," said Amedeo Scognamiglio, co-owner of Faraone & Mennella. The theme for Herrera's show is Vienna in the early 1900s and the fine jewelry design duo, who already create jewelry especially for Herrera, designed some simple but stark pieces for the show, like a 32-inch gold link chain necklace interspersed with onyx and vintage ivory stripes.

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