Calling big-screen beauties. From the girl-gone-bad look of Winona Ryder in "Heathers" to the classic elegance of Audrey Hepburn in "Sabrina," spring had plenty of high chic and swinging style.
Marc Jacobs: Fashion should try a little harder. Marc Jacobs advanced that platform the day before his show. He put the thought into practice with a presentation that featured a marching band, a timely start and a slew of bona fide celebrities. (When was the last time you saw Caroline Kennedy Schlossberg at a fashion show, or, for that matter, the cutest little future jailbird on the planet?) It also featured genuinely provocative fashion.
Those of us who think about such things considered what encore Jacobs could possibly produce as a follow-up to fall's watershed event. He came up with a powerful cocktail of stimuli, one that resonated with the seldom-articulated sense of wonder so essential to the fashion system, as well as with the more concrete, pragmatic concerns of doing business. This was a case study, masterfully executed, in how fashion should move at a sea-change moment, last season's shocker becoming not necessarily this season's proletarian cup of tea, but a genuine possibility for uberfashion types.
So how did Jacobs try harder? Clothes aside, the shift to 8 p.m. from 9 and the 8:30-ish start were not happenstance, but a decision made in response to years of criticism — a smart, if overdue, move, especially with the traditional show audience feeling increasingly put out by the encroachment of celebrity press. But fashion doesn't happen on the merits of good manners. Jacobs said he's sick of the beachification of city style, that real fashion demands "a little more work." He also noted that he set out to make this collection utterly American — hence the Penn State Nittany Lions marching band — yet with a couture sensibility to the cut and details.
If that sounds like an homage to the latter-day Babe Paley set — absolutely not, or at least not obviously so; Jacobs' Americana always boasts a bit of the bad girl. Here, he gave fall's Violet Parr of "The Incredibles" a school uniform, a spot on the cheerleading squad and something every teen needs now and then — structure. All of which made for an entertaining way to push fall's major points — pretty sobriety and volume — more into the mainstream. This time out, some shapes, mostly pants, expanded, while others were trimmed a bit. And throughout, he stripped away girliness wherever possible ("I wanted to avoid frills, bows and disgustingly sweet things — the things I used to love"). Thus, fall's tulle dirndls stiffened into A-line skirts over knife-pleated petticoats, huge smocks deflated into tentish coats and lace-veiled cardigans defrocked into cashmere sweatshirts.But that no-frills statute did not extend into evening, when a bevy of tiered, beribboned gems indicated the designer's acknowledgement, finally, that it would be nice to have some of those celebrity clients chirping his name on the red carpet.
Throughout, Jacobs cribbed from girls-gone-wrong chick-flicks "Carrie," "Heathers" ("I love Winona") and "The Virgin Suicides" ("that's my girl, Sofia"). But for all his presentation bravado, part of his talent lies in a sly versatility. With a little change of shoe and attitude, Jacobs' clothes can transfer seamlessly from a girl with an attitude to a woman of high chic.
On Tuesday, at Marc by Marc Jacobs, the designer showed a collection that had bits and pieces of Olivia Newton-John, Norma Kamali and "The Night Porter," as well as piles of those terrific, do-it-your-way clothes that both girls and boys love.
Bill Blass: Every season, designer Michael Vollbracht wrestles with trying to fit his vision into the Bill Blass legacy. And the effort always shows. But for spring, he finally injected a bit of Vollbracht into the mix, exercising his love of classic film gamines through silhouettes from bygone days — think Bardot, Deneuve and Fonda romping around the South of France in the Sixties. That meant embroidered sundresses with rounded skirts, structured swing coats à la "Umbrellas of Cherbourg" and a winning combo of a pink gingham shirt, a petal embroidered skirt and a checked wool Eisenhower jacket. Vollbracht lightened his touch, too, with a swingy chiffon blouse and skirt in multicolored stripes and simple shirtdresses. Even the evening looks, which normally get lost in kitsch and camp, this season swirled in layers of embellished chiffon and muted colors. The designer seems to be moving in the right direction — perhaps the next step is recognizing that there's life beyond Old Hollywood.
Monique Lhuillier: Monique Lhuillier did volume and swing her way. And she did it best with lots of Sabrina-style ballerina dresses in white, smoky-toned pastels or ombréd tulle, sometimes delicately sequined. Lhuillier is now firmly ensconced in creating romantic evening looks, a logical direction she took after years of designing bridal collections. And whether she swung her latest silhouettes away from the body or kept them close, they all had the designer's signature grace. She stayed on the lean side with a jade Chantilly lace sleeveless sheath; went more fluid with a lavender chiffon starburst-seamed gown, and, in between, showed a beauty in black chiffon: the crystal-belted, drop-waist slip with a sheer overlay and flowing ties. Still, for all the lovely gowns, the short looks were the freshest, such as the lean halter tuxedo dress that opened the show and a little back-buttoned tuxedo shell in white eyelet tucked into a black embroidered tulle and chiffon flared skirt.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty