Dark, somber looks aren't the only game in town. Think chic, sophisticated, real-life clothes and airily beautiful ones, for instance.
Yves Saint Laurent: On the one hand, defiant alternatives to overt trend mongering are essential, and Stefano Pilati deserves praise for picking up that mantle. His still-in-development vision for Yves Saint Laurent is that of a house dedicated to grown-up, sensible sportswear. Quirky blouses done up with pert jabots, and tulip skirts aplenty are just the sort of fanciful, dressed-up daywear that should keep Pilati's fashion-y clients plenty pleased.
On the other hand, he has yet to find his comfort zone. The collection he showed for fall bore no visible connection to the work of Saint Laurent the man, and was weighted down with a feeling the French would call lourd — heavy. Weighty fabrics and some too-obvious decoration made for heaviness of mood and appearance, delivered with precision polish that looked — probably unintentionally — more than a bit Eighties.
He cut thick tweeds in well-rounded jackets and balloon skirts. He trimmed oversize coats with spiky black spines and stiff minidresses with lengths of slinky gold chain. There was more gold to be found, flecked in the hem of a mini or tiled into eccentric Egyptian-esque evening tunics, which were worn over matching sheer pants. The finale: a hot pink number worn with a cape of roses. Too often the complications superseded the chic. But one sensed that beneath the stiff pomp lurked a chic collection struggling to fight its way out.
Rochas: Olivier Theyskens lives by an ethos of calm — something of an anomaly in fashion. That tranquility manifests itself dually in his work, both in his pensive, graceful aesthetic and in the manner in which he has chosen to develop the Rochas business.
While much of his competition jumps from one seasonal theme to the next, Theyskens has been content to refine the gentle melancholia that has become his signature — and which, by the way, has turned into a major influence. At the same time, he started getting serious about day clothes only last season. For fall, he developed them further, while delivering his signature moodiness sans the aggression seen elsewhere.The first model out carried a small black ladder, her hair held back by a lattice headband — thus announcing the collection's inspiration: the world of the chimney sweep. Yet Theyskens is hardly one to let concept trump fashion; thus, he avoided costumery, and drew from the motif a palette of black, grays and dusty blues and practical sober shapes. He added to his daytime repertoire beautifully (save for uncharacteristically silly bicycle shorts) diversifying spring's reed-thin pantsuits and adding a more feminine element in short dresses and fluid coats, as well as a hint of the morning light in snippets of pearly grays.
By night, he continued his brilliant antivulgarity argument with gorgeous gowns, including two printed with tiny, resting blackbirds. Yet while there is something wildly appealing in Theyskens' leisurely path, this collection had a hint of transition to it, as if his next major development were percolating beneath.
That, said, why rush, when the process is so exquisite? Exiting the show, two Brit "It" girl types were all but overcome by the beauty of a particular look — most likely the gray gown with a skirt that drifted with a cloud-like flourish. "Let's both get married," said one. "We can share the dress."
Stella McCartney: "Everyday sophisticated dressing," was the way Stella McCartney's show notes described her fall collection. As a fashion goal, it might sound like a no-brainer. But in a season of high-statement Goth, McCartney's terrific — terrifically real — clothes played like a breath of fresh air. It was her best collection yet, polished and with an easy chic all its own.
McCartney is thinking in an overtly practical way. Following her own wardrobe-boosting instincts instead of relying on pretentious gimmicks, she turned her personal cool into a ton of chic sportswear. The look was grown-up but not stuffy, and worked the house signatures to perfection. Knits chez McCartney are high on the list of priorities and included hearty, oversize draped cardigans, slouchy minidresses, lean numbers, Empire-waist dresses and on and on. Coats were given just as much play. A belled gray coat with cable-knit sleeves opened the show, and plenty of others followed. Eveningwear was graphic, whether a knit minidress slicked with transparent sequins or taffeta dresses bordered with stripes. Fashion-y weekend gear included super-skinny denim riding pants worn with a tailored cashmere coat in cobalt blue.And Stella's right. These are clothes to live in.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty