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Couture Spotlights Bold Beauty

This haute couture season, beauty was in the eye - and hair - of the beheld at all the shows, from Christian Dior to Armani Prive.

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PARIS — This haute couture season, beauty was in the eye — and hair — of the beheld at all the shows, from Christian Dior to Armani Privé.

Crowns entwined with hair created a spectacular extension of coifs ending in ponytails at Jean Paul Gaultier. “There is a masculine side and a feminine side,” said hairstylist Odile Gilbert of the look. Here, makeup artist Tom Pecheux gleaned inspiration from textile prints, and all models sported darkened brows. Some had eyes encircled with color, such as black or rust, as well.

Peepers were the focus at Christian Lacroix, too. “We created a very strong, smoky eye,” said makeup artist Stephane Marais, who swept hues across models’ lids. He added that with such an accent, models looked “possessed.” As for the undulating, faux jewel- and ribbon-bedecked dos at the Lacroix show, Gilbert took a cue from former Empress Sisi of Austria.

Over at Givenchy, hairstylist Luigi Murenu concocted crimped bangs and slick chignons. “We always do soft, long hair for Givenchy,” he said. “This time, it has a little more of a punk attitude.” The makeup look was created to be “light, beautiful and sophisticated,” with Catherine Deneuve in mind, said makeup artist Aaron de Mey.

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