Thakoon: Thakoon Panichgul is deservedly praised for his technical innovation. How can one forget the nonclunky feathered skirt and peony motif of seasons past? For spring, however, he focused less on exploring a singular idea three-dimensionally and more on mood and narrative; in this case, a girl's discovery of color, he said postshow. Yes, those unstructured dresses, Ts and skirts with painterly splats of color — a resort print revisited — are the kind his fans will surely seek out, but they weren't necessarily as inventive as one expects. More interesting in this sartorial-stepping stone of a collection was his arty-but-practical sportswear: slouchy sweaters, shirts, skirts and shorts, raffishly layered in a mix of men's wear prints and a navy tie-dye — all fantastic and, more importantly, illustrating Panichgul's desire to grow.
Doo.Ri: Doo-Ri Chung isn't one to rest on her laurels — in this case, that would be her talent for beautiful draped jerseys. Instead, the designer made spring an exercise in sculptural construction. She started off with her typical flowy numbers, but soon switched gears, working those familiar silhouettes with stiffer, more challenging fabrics, like cotton brocades — a first for her. Chung also went with a transparency theme, ultimately making for one fabulous romantic reverie of a collection. Some dresses had sheer insets, others were encased in netting for a shadowed effect. Even the oversize Swarovski crystal embellishments were chicly cloaked in tulle, both individually and in clusters. The all-important lesson here: Glitz doesn't have to shout.
Benjamin Cho: Brimming with indie street cred, Benjamin Cho has primed his ardent audience for out-there fashion. This season, as he explained backstage, his esoteric effort was about tight silhouettes sprouting organic appendages, a conceit realized in a perhaps too-obvious fashion by enormous Erickson Beamon agates laced upon body-conscious sheaths. Other sculptural maneuvers were much more clever: strips of fabric twisted into intriguing patterns on dresses and artfully knotted rope on tops and skinny pants.
Y-3: Yohji Yamamoto has quite a knack for spectacle. Remember last season's lively light show, and the neon-lit barges on the Hudson the year before that? This time, the designer created a perfectly horrid thunderstorm in the middle of a perfectly sunny day. It certainly set the mood for Y-3's brooding clothes in intriguingly languid cuts and a mostly black palette. Cases in point: an off-kilter tank with a dramatic, full skirt, and a cloak-like sweater that conjured a sportif Harry Potter. But it wasn't all rainy-day blues, even if the FX shower never let up. There were charming suspender dresses, logoed sarongs and chic wide-legged jeans — even some feather-hemmed frocks — in addition to the usual bright athletic fare for which Y-3 is known. And the footwear? Definitely waterproof.
Issa Rae stopped by WWD's NYC headquarters to talk about season two of "Insecure," which premieres this Sunday on HBO. Click link in bio for all the details. #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery; Styled by @mayteallende)
A Stella McCartney sketch of a custom dress made from protein-based silk in partnership with biotech lab Bolt Threads. The dress will be displayed at The Museum of Modern Art's upcoming design exhibition, "Items: Is Fashion Modern?"