The featured beauty products at an Eckerd here aren’t bursting with glitter or bearing names to lure tweens. Instead, a prominent display in cosmetics touts a new line called Inner Splendor, which includes skin care, but also vitamins. There’s also Le Pont, an anti-wrinkle Vitamin C dermal patch from Doak Dermatologics.
At a Harmon in a town 20 minutes away, another wrinkle-fighting product, Frownies, is featured.
Move over kids, mom is the new shopper marketers desire.
Of course female consumers have always been cornerstones of mass market shopping. In the past five years, however, tremendous effort has been pumped into creating new lines for girls ages 7 and up. The brands commanding new shelf space included Jane, Bonne Bell and Caboodles. Somewhere in the space shuffle, mature women got lost — often to specialty stores — and some chains are out to remedy the situation.
In addition to efforts by Eckerd and Harmon, Rite Aid plans to publish a magazine for mature women and Ukrop’s, a supermarket chain, has installed women’s health departments featuring beauty items.
On the manufacturing side, Added Extras, a company that grew by serving young customers, is now directing efforts at older women who want fashionable colors with a line called Liquid Platinum. "We think this is an untapped market," said Michael Kaplan at Added Extras.
The Eckerd line is the first of what many expect will be a bevy of cosmeceutical launches combining vitamins, herbs and beauty ingredients. According to Packaged Facts, a New York research firm, cosmeceuticals are a $5 billion business set to expand to $6 billion by 2006.
The theory behind Inner Splendor is that taking care of inner health breeds a more beautiful complexion. Inner Splendor consists of five items dealing with women-specific needs — Estro Support, Calorie Burners, Bone Max, Nails and Skin Care. Initial response to the line has been strong, said a company source.
The Doak Dermatologics Le Pont uses Vitamin C to reduce wrinkles. The company promises improvements with 14 days of use. There are other similar dermal patches on the market or planned as women look for more serious ammunition against wrinkles.Appealing to mature women who want to fight wrinkles is a logical first step in capturing older shoppers. Studies reveal that 25 percent of women 45 to 54 would consider using cosmetics to hide or prevent wrinkles. And, although the much heralded spending power of teens has been frequently reported, mature women also have a great deal of money they are willing to plunk down to preserve their appearance.
People over 50 comprise 68.2 million or one-third of the adult population. Add in the 20 million aged 45 to 50 and the market is even more attractive. According to the U.S. Census, the 50-plus demographic controls more than 40 percent of all discretionary income, totaling $169 billion. They spend $6 billion a year on toiletries and $2 billion annually on hair care products, according to a study sponsored by More Magazine. Unfortunately, spending falls off on beauty after 55 because marketers are doing little to captivate maturing shoppers, according to Candace Corlett, a principal of WSL Strategic Retail in New York. Corlett said that women over 50 have evolving color cosmetic needs. "Suddenly, they have to change everything. Dark eyeliners and shadows don’t look good anymore. Their foundation has to provide better coverage because of enlarged pores. Many women jump to the conclusion that makeup doesn’t look good on them, when instead they should be saying ‘I need new makeup.’"
The prestige market has already started aiming for mature women. Decleor launched a new skin care line earlier this year in the U.S. called Vitaroma Lift Total for those 45-plus. The line consists of three stockkeeping units to combat skin slackening, wrinkles, dryness and loss of luminosity. Another major initiative is from Lancôme with an item called Absolue. It is designed to combat changes in skin related to aging, such as hormonal deficiency and sun exposure. It is Lancôme’s most expensive product to date — about $90. Estée Lauder is also responding with an extension to its Resilience line called Resilience Lift OverNight Face and Throat Creme.
Although most of the efforts are currently in skin care, cosmetics could be next to give special attention to maturing skin. Beyond offering colors for mature women, marketers expect to add ingredients that could hide aging skin.There is still much more to be done. "Cosmetics companies do little to show mature women in their ads. I would try more products that spoke to me," said Roz Cohen, a 50-pluser who writes a column for the Senior Scoop section of The Courier News, a daily newspaper out of Bridgewater, N.J.. She said marketers need to remember that today’s mature women don’t like to be thought of as frumpy. "We aren’t the grannies of yesterday," she concluded.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye