Contemporary designers at Designers & Agents cast away the somber colors and tailored looks synonymous with current fall collections in place of eye-popping brights, jewel-toned tops and dresses and eco-friendly designs.
NEW YORK — Contemporary designers who showed at Designers & Agents cast away the somber color palettes and tailored looks synonymous with current fall collections in place of eye-popping brights, jewel-toned tops and dresses and eco-friendly designs.D&A ended its three-day run at the Starrett-Lehigh Center on Monday. The exhibition had 56 booths, a 16 percent increase from last August, and 1,120 stores visiting, a 29 percent jump, according to Barbara Kramer and Ed Mandelbaum, co-producers of the exhibition.For the spring 2008 show next month, D&A will undergo an expansion with a second location for exhibitors, and new partnerships with the Council of Fashion Designers of America and the Trade Council of Denmark.Those who thought dresses were a trend of yore were proven wrong at this D&A. The resort season is rife with frocks in an assortment of silhouettes and rich, sultry colors — much to the delight of vendors and buyers."Dresses are very strong now, it's so happening," said Kramer. "I see it in the stores changing quite a bit. It's getting a little more feminine and sophisticated, and even though there is some novelty, it's more about the fabrics and the workmanship. It's a little fresher."Barbara Sued and Sara Bibi, owners of Breeze in Brooklyn, N.Y., purchased a bubble dress and asymmetrical dress from Maggie Ward, as well as tunics and dresses from Charlotte Ronson.Ann Gitter, owner of Knit Wit, a five-unit chain throughout southern New Jersey and Philadelphia, also bought an assortment of T-shirts and dresses from Maggie Ward, as well as basic T-shirts and tanks from Christina Lehr and skirts and dresses with a resort feel from Coolchange.Lori Friedman, owner of Great Stuff, a five-unit contemporary retailer throughout New York's Westchester County and Connecticut, placed orders at Maggie Ward, Rory Beca and Christina Lehr. Friedman caters to young mothers in towns such as Greenwich, Conn., and Rye and Chappaqua, N.Y. "My customer has just gotten out of maternity clothes," she said. "They are looking for something to show the figures off that they work so hard on."I loved Maggie Ward," she continued. "I love the bubble top and dress, because it's not too bubble, which is what is so good about it. I also bought the boyfriend V-neck to go over a bathing suit and the asymmetrical dress."Exhibitor Charlotte Ronson, who used a lot of yellows and crochet in her resort collection, said the mood is "fun, fresh and full of sunny colors." The wholesale price point for her eponymous line ranges from around $40 for a tank to $91 for a dress. Bestsellers included a linen and lace dress with black and brown dotted lines, a mosaic cotton scoopneck tunic with lace scallop edging and a black cotton shift dress.Julie Brown's silk jersey designs are available in an array of Mod-looking turtleneck dresses and shifts to floor-sweeping tank dresses and reversible halter tops. Dresses wholesale from $120 to $150, while tanks hover around $100.Maggie Ward, owned by Three Dots founder John Ward and a favorite with buyers, was a new line that emphasized the basics with a flair for luxury fabrics. The mini-bubble dress, available in both Lyocell, a 100 percent biodegradable fabric, and a soft glitter jersey, wholesales for $60 and $120, respectively."We chose these gorgeous bright colors," said designer Rory Beca. "The colors of the season are lemon, grass, kale, silver, smoke, milk and blueberry, with gold as an accent color in the buttons." Beca also embraced trends such as nautical-inspired pieces, metallic accents and high-waisted and wide-leg pants. A standout in the collection was the racer-back silk ruffle tops and dresses that have a gold button at the neck, available in numerous colors and fabrics, wholesaling from $120 to $150.L.A.-based Rhys Dwfen, a newcomer to D&A, is no stranger to diaphanous fabrics. One of the company's bestsellers was the "Harry Cardigan," a pointelle cotton, trapeze cardigan that is almost sheer, wholesaling for $74.Meanwhile, beginning next month, D&A is expanding beyond the borders of its present location to an additional space at the Chelsea Art Museum on West 22nd Street here.The floor plan of the new space will enable designers to showcase their collections differently, as well as serve as a space to host D&A's latest partnerships. The CFDA has chosen D&A as a partner in its New Business Services Network. Each season, two designers will be selected and introduced at D&A-sponsored booths."As part of our relationship with the CFDA, each season we vote for one sportswear and one accessories designer to have a CFDA booth at the D&A show," said Mandelbaum. "We are picking the ones that are most geared to who we are, and we will do that for all of our cities, in Los Angeles, New York and London."D&A has also joined forces with the Trade Council of Denmark to showcase 11 fashion collections from that country. A Sept. 14 cocktail event sponsored by Dansk will celebrate the new space and feature Danish fashion and artwork.
Virgil Abloh’s dad Nee and Don Crawley, cofounder of RSVP Gallery, were some of the hometown crew at the Chicago-born designer’s debut show for Louis Vuitton. (📸: @jdiderich ) #wwdmens #louisvuitton #virgilabloh
About last night: @marycharteris and @adwoaaboah hit up Hyde Park for the Serpentine Galleries’ annual summer party held in partnership with @chanelofficial. Head to WWD.com to see more photos. #wwdfashion
“This is Paris, my first show. I’m all about democracy. If some kid shows up, flew from New Jersey to just be around, let’s get him a seat.” — @virgilabloh tells WWD’s @jdiderich ahead of his first show for @louisvuitton men’s. (📸: @alfredo_piola ) #wwdmens #virgilabloh #louisvuitton
“Kate Spade was a true fashion icon who brought joy to the lives of women around the world, and inspired women to live life to the fullest. We are dedicated to carrying on her legacy,” said Anna Bakst, brand president and chief executive officer of @katespadeny. The Kate Spade Foundation announced that it will be donating $1 million to suicide prevention and mental health awareness in tribute to the recent death of Kate Spade. Read more on WWD.com. #wwdnews (📷: @chinseephoto)
A first look at @virgilabloh’s sneakers for @louisvuitton. Abloh spoke to WWD about his debut collection for Louis Vuitton, creating @kendalljenner’s #metgala outfit and redefining the heritage brand. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion 📷: @alfredo_piola)
The world’s largest producer of denim @iskodenim is sharing the strategy behind its product development process. Read our full interview with ISKO’s product development manager Baris Ozden on the company’s extensive research practices, upcoming denim trends and the latest material innovations on WWD.com. #iskodenim
“I genuinely fell in love with water, I fell in love with Fiji, I fell in love with the whole life that we lived for those few months,” says @mrsamclaflin of filming for his new movie “Adrift” with @shailenewoodley. The 31-year-old actor spoke with WWD about his upcoming projects, meeting Jamie Dornan and working with co-star Woodley. #wwdeye (📷: @jamstoker)
3 years ago, fans of the late singer Aaliyah started calling for a collaboration with @maccosmetics. With the strength of social media — including mock ups of products — 25,000 people signed a Change.org petition for a limited-edition collection, and MAC couldn’t ignore the buzz. Tomorrow, MAC will unveil MAC x Aaliyah, a tribute to the singer who passed away nearly 17 years ago. Head to our stories to preview the new collection, which was worked on by Aaliyah’s family and inspired directly by her makeup bag. #wwdbeauty
Artistic director @clarewaightkeller will be dedicating @givenchyofficial’s fall 2018 couture show in Paris on July 1 to house founder Hubert de Givenchy, who passed away in March at age 91. Givenchy said the collection would be “an homage to his iconic creations, technique, and personal lexicon” and a “celebration of his timeless elegance and grace.” Head to WWD.com to read more. #wwdfashion (📷: Delphine Achard)