Sophia Kokosalaki: Gone are the days of twisty fabrics, spiderweb knits and impossibly transparent fabrics. Kokosalaki has taken on a more subtle, chic and refined mantle as her collection proved Tuesday night. The knits were almost weightless, draping across arms and torsos or gathered into a few narrow pleats across the front of loose-fitting dresses and turtleneck sweaters. Gossamer skirts were folded into small pleats, while coppery dresses hugged the body and draped downward from the waist. “I wanted to keep this collection wearable,” said Kokosalaki backstage after the show. “This season I saw a positive, optimistic woman, strong but not aggressive.” And who wouldn’t feel strong wearing a cropped vest lined with black fur and covered in flower-shaped metal buttons? Who wouldn’t walk with a certain swagger after tossing a shrunken sailor jacket over a lightweight knit dress?

Giles: Giles Deacon, the man responsible for launching Bottega Veneta’s hard-edged ready-to-wear in the pre-Gucci Group days, is back on the fashion front. Deacon is a hometown boy and returned to the runway with his 80-piece Giles collection, which showed Monday evening in the Great Hall — now the dining room— of the Royal Hospital in Chelsea. Citing Bill Blass and Ziggy Stardust as inspiration, he started with strong tailoring. A silvery gray tweed dress and trumpet skirt were jazzed up with silver leather piping and kick pleats, the latter topped by a satin bow blouse in deep amethyst. Soft gray cashmere was cut into sharp peplum jackets with exaggerated lapels, and paired with either softly pleated silk skirts or wide-legged trousers — just the kind of thing a lady would love to lunch in. A black Art Deco-inspired dress with kimono sleeves and heavy gold trim and a cashmere trompel’oeil dress were equally stunning.

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