PARIS — Vincent Darré, the new artistic director of Emanuel Ungaro, did not mince words when asked if one can expect a change in direction at the French fashion house.
“Radical change,” he assured during an exclusive preview last week of the pre-fall Emanuel Ungaro collection, his first effort since succeeding Giambattista Valli in October. “I am interested in another woman. There’s a lot of tailoring, and more daywear. And it’s perhaps less sexy.”
Darré said he aims to refresh the company’s couture roots, and the timeless innovation and elegance that Ungaro achieved when he launched the house in 1967.
To wit: Among Darré’s first orders of business was to plunge into the archives to rediscover Ungaro’s “incredible prints” and inimitable tailoring style of the Sixties and Seventies.
Most recently a creative consultant to Moschino, Darré has also worked alongside Karl Lagerfeld (at Fendi and Chloé) as well as at Yves Saint Laurent, Blumarine and Prada. His appointment at Ungaro marks the first time the fashion world will discover Darré’s design sensibility solo. So what exactly is it?
Darré paused, stiffened in his slim black tuxedo jacket, and then offered: “What I think I brought to Moschino was an elegance that was very Parisian. Here it will be more evident because the house is Parisian.”
While enamored of the couture world as depicted in old movies — and practiced by greats like Lagerfeld, Saint Laurent and Ungaro — Darré said he harbors no ambitions to do high fashion himself. “That’s another education,” he said. “Today we are brought up in the world of ready-to-wear.”
Still, he said he is thrilled that Ungaro, currently working on a semi-couture project, is present in the house, and that couture represents a benchmark ideal that he hopes to instill in the house, to give the brand a more personal allure.
He said the pre-fall collection was partly inspired by Fassbinder films and his fetish actresses, Ingrid Caven and Hanna Schygulla, who had the style of Hollywood divas “but less decadent and more modern.” That translates into jersey dresses with floral chiffon worked into the seams, and a long black gown decorated haphazardly, as if half-finished, with bows and pleats. But range is paramount, and he said the collection spans all manner of day clothes, including leather and fur garments, as well as handbags and footwear.“I want to push the accessories and they will become more important,” he said.
The fashion world will get Darré’s full-strength vision come March when he presents his fall-winter collection on the runway during Paris Fashion Week.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia