NEW YORK -- Oscar de la Renta has signed licensing agreements for a fur line and a fashion jewelry line.
After a 14-year relationship with Wagner Fur, de la Renta will now design a fur collection with Alixandre.
Carmine Porcelli, de la Renta's design director of licensing, said the designer felt it was time to make a change, but did not elaborate. Ken Wagner, president of Wagner Fur, was unavailable for comment.
The first collection under Alixandre will be for fall. Porcelli projected next year's wholesale volume at $5 million.
"We're very, very excited," said Larry Schulman, vice president of Alixandre. "There are lots of new things in the works. The collection will be very modern and will encompass everything from fur trim in leather and rainwear to ponchos and shearlings. We will be in every product category you can imagine."
Meanwhile, Alixandre has ended its fur licensing agreement with Calvin Klein by mutual consent, according to Schulman.
"We had an on-again, off-again relationship with Calvin Klein for 17 years," he said.
A spokeswoman for Calvin Klein said no decision has been made about producing a line of fur under a different license. (See related story about Calvin Klein licensing agreement, page 2.)
Alixandre also holds a fur license with Valentino.
The de la Renta jewelry line is being done with Weingroff Enterprises, based in Cranston, R.I. The collection, also for fall, will debut at the March accessories market and will be shown and sold at Weingroff's showroom here.
Wholesale prices will range from $25 to $175, and Porcelli projected a first-year wholesale volume of $5 million.
"We're aiming it at the upscale department and specialty store market, as we've done with our other accessories lines," Porcelli said. Part of the retail line launch, he added, will be done as an exclusive.
According to Porcelli, the last fashion jewelry license pact de la Renta had was with Coro, but that association ended 10 years ago.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast