With the subject of wearable fashion weighing on many a designer’s mind, even avant-garde–ster Hussein Chalayan turned uncharacteristically classic for spring, delivering a delightful run of clean, glamour-inspired looks. Mimicking an old-school couture presentation, the designer donned a slick toupee, tux and thin moustache to present each of his looks, accompanied by a live jazz band. The mood was Fifties resort–meets–Nineties minimalism, from striped Brigitte Bardot bateau tops replete with pointy bras (a perky leitmotif in the collection) to sheer white high-split gowns layered over belted bodysuits. Intriguing twists included a pair of ceramic hands climbing one white dress, its drapes spilling from their clutch; a trompe l’oeil print of a hand pulling down fabric on a dress to create its décolleté, as well as the use of a liquid navy pleated silk polyester fabric on frocks to create the effect of a splashing wave.

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