It was a season of long-awaited debuts, returns, hellos and adieus. To wit: Alessandra Facchinetti was unceremoniously dismissed by Valentino owner Permira at the tail end of Paris Fashion Week, a day after her second ready-to-wear collection for the maison.

In Milan, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi showed their first collection for Gianfranco Ferré, replacing Lars Nilsson, who was also quickly shown the door in February. Aquilano and Rimondi rose to the challenge, presenting a collection that paid homage to Ferré’s structured shapes, while for their own namesake collection, which is no longer called 6267, the designers went the more fluid and easy route. Matthew Williamson, who now will focus on building his own line, took his final bow at Emilio Pucci after three years at the helm of the historic Italian house. Rebecca Moses, after a six-year hiatus, showed her fi rst collection for Bilancioni—a chic line entirely made in-house by the 55-year-old company. At Pollini, British designer Jonathan Saunders took the baton from Rifat Ozbek, who left the company after a four-year run. Artist Julie Verhoeven also came back on the fashion scene, partnering with Donatella Versace, who decorated some of her gowns with the illustrator’s prints.

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