It was a season of long-awaited debuts, returns, hellos and adieus. To wit: Alessandra Facchinetti was unceremoniously dismissed by Valentino owner Permira at the tail end of Paris Fashion Week, a day after her second ready-to-wear collection for the maison.
In Milan, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi showed their first collection for Gianfranco Ferré, replacing Lars Nilsson, who was also quickly shown the door in February. Aquilano and Rimondi rose to the challenge, presenting a collection that paid homage to Ferré’s structured shapes, while for their own namesake collection, which is no longer called 6267, the designers went the more fluid and easy route. Matthew Williamson, who now will focus on building his own line, took his final bow at Emilio Pucci after three years at the helm of the historic Italian house. Rebecca Moses, after a six-year hiatus, showed her fi rst collection for Bilancioni—a chic line entirely made in-house by the 55-year-old company. At Pollini, British designer Jonathan Saunders took the baton from Rifat Ozbek, who left the company after a four-year run. Artist Julie Verhoeven also came back on the fashion scene, partnering with Donatella Versace, who decorated some of her gowns with the illustrator’s prints.
Seconds after Gucci’s Frida Giannini stepped out on the runway to receive her postshow accolades, the designer unexpectedly strode over in mile-high platforms to embrace a front-row occupant. It wasn’t the celebrity du jour, but rather Mark Lee, Gucci’s chief executive officer of four years, who will leave his post at the end of December.
“In 12 years, it’s the first time I’ve sat for a show,” said Lee, noting that Giannini had asked him to attend. “I spent all night thinking about it and finally decided, yes. It was very sweet. But remember,” he instructed, “Gucci will always be Gucci.”
In New York, meanwhile, editors and buyers were treated to some faces they hadn’t seen in quite some time. Miguel Adrover made his fashion week comeback with Hess Natur, the eco-friendly German mail-order business that tapped the Spaniard as creative director earlier this year. Hess Natur may not let him have live sheep dropping off the runway—remember that old runway antic?— but Adrover was able to let his imagination run wild in other ways, creating an installation of nine garments, including a frock made from 2,000 yards of cotton ribbon. Christian Francis Roth, another former enfant terrible, made his return with the Francis by Christian Francis Roth collection inspired by iconic movie The Warriors.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia