By and  on November 8, 2010

The sophomore album is the trial-by-fire of the music world. In thefashion realm, it’s making a debut at the design helm of a well-known fashion house. That’s why hats were tipped to Sarah Burtonfor her spectacular stepping out as creative director of AlexanderMcQueen following the founder’s suicide earlier this year. Accordingto Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Hong Kong-based LaneCrawford, Burton “did the impossible, filling almost an unfillablepair of shoes.” Beyond being faithful to McQueen’s DNA with herode to paganism and high craft, the 35-year-old put her own stampon the runway collection—and an extensive showroom offering.

“We are completely behind it and want to bring Sarah Burtonout to present the collection with a trunk show,” Rutson said.Having spent her entire 14-year fashion career at the elbowof McQueen, Burton learned plenty from her master, but is asunnier sort. “I don’t think it has to have as much angst in it. Ithink it will be softer,” she said of her approach.

Despite a chaotic still-life presentation, Giles Deacon madea good first impression as creative director at Emanuel Ungaro,helping people forget Lindsay Lohan’s laughingstock attemptto revive the august house. The focus was back on vivid prints,feminine draping and a vivacious, Parisian spirit that put thehouse back on the radar. “Every important retailer and storedirector came and sales were positive,” Deacon reported.

Carving out a niche for luxury streetwear, new kid on theblock Julien David’s first full clothing collection was picked upby the likes of Colette and Le Bon Marché in Paris, Websterin Miami and Isetan in Japan. The Tokyo-based French native,who launched two years ago with a silk scarf line, this seasonintroduced around 60 ready-to-wear pieces marrying noblefabrics with edgy prints and unconventional silhouettes. Thecollection was inspired by theresurgence of BMX culture.Bestsellers included oversizeshirts splashed with Liberty-inspired tire-mark prints madeup, on closer inspection, ofitsy-bitsy bike parts, as well astransformable rainwear.

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