The biggest shock that Raf Simons, a consummate innovator and futurist, could have given his audience was a lineup of classic suits—and that’s exactly how he opened his mesmerizing fall show in Paris. The one novelty at the beginning was a small reflective shard, inlaid in the jacket where a pocket square would normally appear. “I wanted to bring tailoring to young men, and turn it into something young and energetic, because I think the suit is problematic; it’s too passive,” Simons said. Thus he drew in elements suggesting strength and action, putting some of his handsome young models in high-tech sneakers instead of dress shoes, for example. As the show progressed, suits sprouted sleeves of contrasting colors, or were layered with long-sleeve shrugs made of fine knits or bright neoprene. The dynamic colors and beefed-up shoulders suggested workaday humans morphing into superheroes—perhaps catalyzed by those mysterious shards.
Issa Rae stopped by WWD's NYC headquarters to talk about season two of "Insecure," which premieres this Sunday on HBO. Click link in bio for all the details. #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery; Styled by @mayteallende)
A Stella McCartney sketch of a custom dress made from protein-based silk in partnership with biotech lab Bolt Threads. The dress will be displayed at The Museum of Modern Art's upcoming design exhibition, "Items: Is Fashion Modern?"