The biggest shock that Raf Simons, a consummate innovator and futurist, could have given his audience was a lineup of classic suits—and that’s exactly how he opened his mesmerizing fall show in Paris. The one novelty at the beginning was a small reflective shard, inlaid in the jacket where a pocket square would normally appear. “I wanted to bring tailoring to young men, and turn it into something young and energetic, because I think the suit is problematic; it’s too passive,” Simons said. Thus he drew in elements suggesting strength and action, putting some of his handsome young models in high-tech sneakers instead of dress shoes, for example. As the show progressed, suits sprouted sleeves of contrasting colors, or were layered with long-sleeve shrugs made of fine knits or bright neoprene. The dynamic colors and beefed-up shoulders suggested workaday humans morphing into superheroes—perhaps catalyzed by those mysterious shards.



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