Much of the fall season’s richness was found in mesmerizing fabrics. Dries Van Noten revived an Orbis printing technique to achieve his limited edition marbleized floral prints, inspired by swatches he found in a couture textiles archive in Lyon, France. The painstaking method involves mounting layers of colored wax around a contraption called a Zylinder, which is then rolled onto wet cloth to produce a mix of blurry and sharp prints in vivid colors.
Lending an otherworldly quality to the Balenciaga collection, Nicolas Ghesquière combined hand-painted landscapes, reminiscent of Chinese silk screens, with dégradé swooshes of airbrushed paint on varnished latex dresses, the latter technique centering on the dresses’ plastrons.
But guipure and lace in a variety of guises were the huge story for fall. Miuccia Prada led the pack, mixing unusual combinations of rich guipure with heavy lace. “They were looking for really rich, traditional fabrics, kind of like a widow’s veil,” said Hans Schreiber, creative director of the century-old Swiss embroiderer Forster Willi, which developed several styles of guipure for Prada’s collection made from cotton, Lurex and wool. The fabric, embroidered on old machines and finished with handmade cutouts, sells for around $800 a meter.
Contemporary twists, fusing old-fashioned chic with performance-led properties, was a predominant theme for lace, with styles ranging from destroyed silk “wrap lace” at Chloé to open lace bubbling with silicon pearls at Proenza Schouler. “The idea is that pearls are chic on the eye and silicon is sporty to the touch,” explained Pierre Alain Cornez, artistic director of Sophie Hallette and Riechers Marescot, which produced lace for the collections of Prada, Proenza Schouler, Zac Posen, Chloé and Chanel this season. For Posen, the firm developed a breathable, weather-resistant lace, using a special Japanese polyamide, to decorate down jackets. At Chanel, all of the gloves and leggings were made using an ultradelicate 14-point lace combined with Lycra. “It’s about balancing old-school traditions with high-performance techniques, chic with sporty and fantasy with classics,” said Cornez.
“The season’s main trend is for guipure,” noted Hervé Protais, general manager of Solstiss, the French lace manufacturer that developed lace styles for several collections, including Alexander McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, Roberto Cavalli and Christian Lacroix. “Some of the yardage that McQueen commissioned was initially for the spring season, but then he decided it wasn’t the moment,” Protais said, adding that the pattern for McQueen’s hand-drawn kissing peacock motif cost around 10,000 euros, or $15,000 at current exchange, as an exclusive for a year and a half. “That’s the most complicated part of the process—calculating where all of the 10,000 yarns are to go on the Levers machines,” he said.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews