Older, younger, veteran, newbie, supe or supersized—spring runways provided a diverse departure from most typical catwalk mannequins.
For instance, just when it seemed models couldn’t get much younger, Karl Lagerfeld cast young Hudson, the two-year-old son of model Brad Kroenig, to strike a pose at Chanel. Dad proudly escorted his boy down the runway, in matching attire. Lagerfeld hit the other end of the spectrum too, casting his early Eighties muse, 53-year-old Ines de la Fressange, who last year was voted the “most chic woman in Paris” by readers of Le Figaro. (She beat out French ﬁrst lady and former model Carla Bruni.)
From the strength-in-numbers department, models walked in “power packs” at Louis Vuitton and Lanvin, while at John Galliano, they appeared in character as Twenties seductresses, casually stopping midstroll to ﬂirt with the audience.
“It’s great because everyone’s inspired to look beyond the show package,” said casting director Ashley Brokaw, whose shows included Proenza Schouler and Balenciaga.
At Jean Paul Gaultier, larger-than-life performer Beth Ditto opened and closed the show, and plus-size models Crystal Renn and Marquita Pring also took a turn on his runway. At Giles in London, 71-year-old supermodel Veruschka closed the show. Japanese Vogue fashion director Anna Dello Russo appeared in Emanuel Ungaro carrying an accessorized stuffed lamb. At Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière cast Miranda Kerr (who was ﬁve months pregnant at the time), seven nonmodels (plucked from the streets by the Balenciaga team), and mixed in veterans like Stella Tennant, Amber Valletta, Carolyn Murphy, and Gisele Bündchen.
Brokaw says it’s important to maintain a point of view with unconventional casting. “Prada always does a really good job,” she explained. “It’s very clear what the perspective is, but it is maybe different ages, different shapes and sizes. Girls you don’t normally see on the runway or you haven’t seen in a while.”
Arizona Muse, considered by many to be spring’s breakout girl, was a Prada exclusive in Milan. “I feel supported by them, both as a model and as a mother,” said Muse, who recently resumed her career after having a son. Modeling and motherhood haven’t always mixed, but now model moms pack the runways, including Tennant and Bündchen, Jourdan Dunn, Isabeli Fontana and Natalia Vodianova, who earned a pretty penny— $80,000 to $100,000—to walk Cavalli’s show (and turn up at the party).
Then there were the veteran/rookie pairings seen at Lanvin. Newcomer Melodie Monrose stormed down the runway for the closing look with a brigade of vets including Ajak Deng, Jourdan Dunn, Jeneil Williams and Ataui Deng. The ﬁnale was ampliﬁed—all the models made their curtain calls together. “When we did the ﬁnale [at Missoni] with our arms up and we saw the look of surprise on everyone in the audience,” recalled Monrose, “I think every model wanted to smile.” Rick Owens’ ﬁnale also used the mob mentality while Marc Jacobs sent several groups of models out simultaneously at Vuitton. Individually, they had star power; collectively, they were a galaxy.
The supes were out in force, even if not all were on the runways. Naomi Campbell celebrated her 25-year career with the help of Dolce & Gabbana at parties in all four fashion capitals. Claudia Schiffer was front-row-ready at Salvatore Ferragamo and Chanel, where Vanessa Paradis, Lou Doillon, Elisa Sednaoui and DJ/model Leigh Lezark also watched. It was Kate Moss’s appearance at Christian Dior, though, that sparked paparazzi pandemonium before the show, leaving one photographer with a bloodied forehead.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty