The drama factor was as high as the stiltlike shoes as Olivier Theyskens staged his fantastical fall Nina Ricci collection, which would turn out to be his swan song. Less than a week later, Ricci announced the end of its collaboration with the Belgian wunderkind, citing a desire to “reorientate its development strategy.” At press time, Ricci had yet to offi cially name his successor: Peter Copping, a top design deputy to Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton. Nor had Theyskens broken his silence on the end of his affair with the French house, preserving the air of mystery and poetry left by his surreal, darkly romantic farewell collection.
A psychedelic-Goth undercurrent pulsed through the collection, reminding the audience of the raw talent that catapulted Theyskens to fame at age 21, when Madonna wore his black satin hook-and-eye gown to the Oscars in 1998. While acknowledging weak sell-through of Theyskens’ designs for Ricci, retailers said they would welcome a return of his signature collection, which the designer put on hold when he joined Rochas in 2003. Sources said Theyskens recently bought back the rights to his trademark, suggesting that just might be the gritty path he will follow.
Breaking: @cushnieetochs’ co-founders @carlycushnie and @ochsmichelle are parting ways. After a 10-year run, Ochs is leaving the brand. Get the full story on WWD.com – link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
@maybelline’s Kanako Takase had snow bunnies in mind when creating the beauty look for @philipppleininternational. Playing off of the bedazzled snowboards in the collection, Takase mixed two highlighters together for a luminous sheen. #wwdbeauty #nyfw (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
“There’s a huge gap between the old way of doing things and today. It takes the youth to help evolve that. You have to count on the kids today to help lead you into the future. A lot of these retailers are stuck in the past. Communication is the biggest thing,” said @ronniefieg of @kith on the youth’s role in retail. On Monday night, Jeff Staple moderated a keynote session with Fieg and @syresmith at Assembly - a series of workshops, talks and keynotes addressing topics or issues in the apparel industry. Head to WWD.com to read more advice from Fieg and what Smith thinks of his dad @willsmith’s Instagram account and sustainability (📷: @weston.wells)
@joansmalls closed the @michaelkors fall 2018 show in black sequined pants and a varsity T printed with 19 on the front and 81 on the back. 1981 – the year Kors went into business. #wwdfashion #nfyw (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
“You think your life is going to be a certain way, and nothing you thought would happen ends up happening. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I’d be designing clothes and working with Mickey Drexler, and building something I’m deeply proud of,” said Jenna Lyons. Nine months after leaving @jcrew, Lyons is exploring the meaning of happiness. Read the interview, where Lyons talks about reinvention and more on WWD.com – link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Farrell) #jennalyons #jcrew