For his headlining act at Pitti Uomo in Florence, Thom Browne conceived an extremely regimented and hyper-condensed day in the life of an office drone, circa 1955. Forty models, moving in unison, typed at identical desks, ate identical lunches and—oh yes—wore the exact same outfit, comprised of Browne’s greatest hits: a shrunken gray suit, a cardigan with arm stripes, heavy wing tips and a shrunken camel overcoat. “In the beginning it was the gray suit, and that’s how every collection starts. So I wanted people to see an army of that,” said Browne. The designer risked disappointing anyone wishing to see new designs. For that, they had to seek out his booth at the trade fair. But the show succeeded in epitomizing his fetishized businesslike aesthetic.

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