Early in their fashion career, Dutch design wizards Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren staged a strike in lieu of presenting a collection. This same rebellious streak was clear this season as the duo painted the word “No” on models’ faces and used it to protrude from jackets and gowns. They dubbed it a “glamorous protest” and gave voice to a general malaise with fashion’s breakneck pace of collections, shows and trends. “The negative feelings were somehow linked to the pressure we feel of always having to perform not only artistically, but commercially, as well,” the designers-cum-philosophers mused in an e-mail. “Creativity is your only weapon, and trying to translate the negative feelings into something beautiful-positive is our way of dealing with [it]. We love fashion more than anything in the world, and therefore felt the need to translate this feeling of resistance into clothes in a literal, but hopefully poetic, way.”
Their protest against the sewing machine led them to staple clothes together, becoming “a new kind of embroidery,” they said. A starting point for their collection was the song “No,” by Yoko Ono, who once made an antifashion statement herself during a performance during which she invited members of the audience to cut off a piece of her clothes until she was bare. Viktor & Rolf can relate: “This kind of extreme message is something we admire.”
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia