Emotions seesawed for Yohji Yamamoto-ites when, in the week following the presentation of the house’s spring collection, the company filed for bankruptcy protection with the Tokyo District Court—only to announce it had a rescuer lined up: Japanese private equity fund Integral Corp. Yohji Yamamoto proclaimed his intention of maintaining his 28-year tradition of showing his collections in Paris. “I will continue to show Japanese fashion on the level of the world stage,” he vowed. Anxieties certainly didn’t transmit in his show, a deft exercise in keeping up appearances that belied any gloomy financial prospects faced by the firm—notwithstanding the low-key venue of its Paris showroom. Yamamoto delivered a sweet and young street-meets-Victoriana collection that included puffshouldered shirts, floral frocks delicately destroyed by hand with drops of acid, and even miniskirts.

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