Full-on runway show, quiet presentation or film debut? That was the big question designers faced prior to the runway season. With businesses slashing budgets dramatically, houses were weighing their options. Some New York designers, like Tommy Hilfiger and Narciso Rodriguez, decided to return to the Bryant Park tents for big, seated runway shows, while many others— particularly smaller or emerging businesses, like Vena Cava and Threeasfour—opted for off-site presentations.
In Europe, designers Gareth Pugh and agnès b. were among those who skipped the runway, opting to show films. “I didn’t want to seem like this brash little Brit kid doing all these big things in Paris,” declared Pugh after surprising his audience by showing his fall collection as a video projection starring Natasa Vojnovic. “I don’t like it that a 10-minute runway show is just for the people who are there.” He added that his parents checked out the film from an Internet cafe in Lanzarote, Spain.
Showing a mini-movie for her collection was a return to her roots for Agnès Troublé. The designer first unveiled a mini-movie for her fall 1996 collection and has commissioned filmmakers like Argentine director Gaspard Noé for subsequent collections. “I chose to do a film because I think it’s much more modern now than making shows,” Troublé said, adding it’s easier to export to international markets. It will be shown in all agnès b. stores. “That film will last longer than I will last,” mused Pugh.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast