Revivals are a favorite sport in fashion, and they took on Olympic proportions this season. Each fashion capital had its share of hotly anticipated comebacks and relaunches.
In New York, all eyes were on Marco Zanini and Peter Som. Zanini took over the creative helm at Halston, but even with original Halston-ette Liza Minnelli cheering him on, it wasn’t enough to secure a hit. The Versace alum received, at best, mixed reviews for his collection. Som fared slightly better trying to revive Bill Blass. He managed to pump a more modern spin into a house that arguably has lost some fashion relevance in recent years. Som sampled Blass trademarks such as tweeds and big bows, and added trim suits, bright furs and sequined dresses.
Also returning to the runway was Hervé Léger, masterminded by Max Azria, who owns the brand. Azria re-created the label’s signature bandage using knits and a palette of pretty dégradés along with feathers and silk organza appliqués. London saw the relaunch of the Ossie Clark label, designed by Avsh Alom Gur. However, the collection was hammered for being too literal at times, with floral and geometric prints.
In Milan, creative director Cristina Ortiz took on Salvatore Ferragamo. For her debut collection, glamour and Greta Garbo served as her guides, which some felt resulted in a little too much flash.
Meanwhile, in Paris, Esteban Cortazar tried to infuse a breath of fresh air at Emanuel Ungaro after a revolving door of designers left the house floating in limbo. Cortazar’s debut garnered tepid reviews, with criticism centered on his too-gentle approach to a house that needs to be shocked back to life. That said, the 23-year-old appeared to have more of an affinity for Ungaro’s heritage than his recent predecessors.
But if past runway seasons offer any lesson for the future of these designers, it’s that the clock is always ticking. After all, Lars Nilsson was dismissed from Gianfranco Ferré in early February before his runway debut for the house, and Chloé’s creative director, Paulo Melim Andersson, was replaced by Hannah MacGibbon in mid-March, after just three seasons.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews