Revivals are a favorite sport in fashion, and they took on Olympic proportions this season. Each fashion capital had its share of hotly anticipated comebacks and relaunches.
In New York, all eyes were on Marco Zanini and Peter Som. Zanini took over the creative helm at Halston, but even with original Halston-ette Liza Minnelli cheering him on, it wasn’t enough to secure a hit. The Versace alum received, at best, mixed reviews for his collection. Som fared slightly better trying to revive Bill Blass. He managed to pump a more modern spin into a house that arguably has lost some fashion relevance in recent years. Som sampled Blass trademarks such as tweeds and big bows, and added trim suits, bright furs and sequined dresses.
Also returning to the runway was Hervé Léger, masterminded by Max Azria, who owns the brand. Azria re-created the label’s signature bandage using knits and a palette of pretty dégradés along with feathers and silk organza appliqués. London saw the relaunch of the Ossie Clark label, designed by Avsh Alom Gur. However, the collection was hammered for being too literal at times, with floral and geometric prints.
In Milan, creative director Cristina Ortiz took on Salvatore Ferragamo. For her debut collection, glamour and Greta Garbo served as her guides, which some felt resulted in a little too much flash.
Meanwhile, in Paris, Esteban Cortazar tried to infuse a breath of fresh air at Emanuel Ungaro after a revolving door of designers left the house floating in limbo. Cortazar’s debut garnered tepid reviews, with criticism centered on his too-gentle approach to a house that needs to be shocked back to life. That said, the 23-year-old appeared to have more of an affinity for Ungaro’s heritage than his recent predecessors.
But if past runway seasons offer any lesson for the future of these designers, it’s that the clock is always ticking. After all, Lars Nilsson was dismissed from Gianfranco Ferré in early February before his runway debut for the house, and Chloé’s creative director, Paulo Melim Andersson, was replaced by Hannah MacGibbon in mid-March, after just three seasons.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye