NEW DEHLI — The most common self-assessment used by local designers to sum up the burgeoning fashion culture in this, the second-most-populous nation in the world, is that India is in a state of "fashion anarchy."

Homegrown designers are a relatively new phenomenon here, most having set up their businesses only in the past five years in response to India’s growing upper class and its appetite for global styles. Yet the country, or at least its most wealthy minority, has nevertheless become suddenly obsessed with having its own fashion. India already has supermodels, stylists, celebrity designers and a three-year-old fashion week staged with all the pomp and seriousness of those in Paris, Milan or New York. The industry’s snappy ascendancy has resulted in a dichotomy that pits a centuries-old tradition of dress against the more modern influences of the West.

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