NEW YORK — Catherine Deneuve has definite opinions on a lot of things, not the least of which is makeup.
Clad in a green print dress and wedge heels during an interview with WWD at the Mercer Hotel here, the French actress and fashion icon made it clear that while she wants it to be salable, her upcoming limited-edition makeup collection for MAC Cosmetics was born of her own beauty likes and needs.
"I really wanted to be involved with the making of the colors, and to create a very small but very personal collection," said Deneuve, whose lineup for MAC will be on counter on Jan. 20 in the brand's stores and at maccosmetics.com. Deneuve worked closely with MAC's James Gager and Caroline Geerlings to create the collection, which comprises more than 27 limited-edition products — including four lipsticks, four Lipglass shades, two eye shadow quads, two nail lacquers and four short-handled makeup brushes.
Deneuve is the third in a series of MAC Beauty Icons; previous icons were Liza Minnelli and Diana Ross.
"Catherine Deneuve has always been a style inspiration to everybody who works at MAC," said John Demsey, global president of the MAC and Estée Lauder brands. "Over the years, almost every single swipe of every single MAC collection invariably has a moment from the life of Catherine Deneuve. She is such an accomplished actress and an amazing style icon. I thought it would be wonderful to bring the ultimate icon of French beauty and style here to do a collection."
And Deneuve was more than up for the challenge. "As an actress, I've been concerned with makeup for such a long time, especially because as an actress you will wear makeup at least eight hours a day — as compared to session photos, where you are maybe in makeup for two hours," she said. "For instance, I knew that foundations often go to pink or yellow, so we worked together to find the tone that I thought was so necessary for a nice, natural glow on this skin. No one is very pink or very white or very red, so these foundations are not either."
MAC will offer a limited-edition Select Tint shade, NW23, and three limited-edition shades of its Studio Lights makeup — Tender Glow, Sand and Frangipani — in the Deneuve lineup. Select Tint retails for $23, while Studio Lights retails for $14.50.Two limited-edition eye color palettes, each retailing for $34, will also be offered. "I knew that I didn't want sparkle of any kind — in eye shadows or even the nail lacquer," said Deneuve. "I wanted things as matte as possible."
While Deneuve realizes that matte can be a scary word to some women, she's convinced of its importance. "When a woman hears that it's matte she might think, 'Oh, it's harder to wear, you have to be perfect,' but actually, I find that the sparkle in makeup is harder to wear," she said. "Things are a little looser, with shining particles going everywhere as you touch your eye or your cheekbone. As an actress, you have to have makeup for the cinema that is as clear and as matte as possible, because the artificial light doesn't take the sparkle of makeup well, especially after a few hours.
"We quickly decided on the colors, but it was the finishing that took time," continued Deneuve. "Getting the exact perfect tone takes as much time as deciding on a color. It's hard, when people try foundations on their hands and then try them on their face. The hand's skin and texture is never that of the face."
Store lighting is another challenge. "[In general] I think in stores it's a shame because you don't have the right lights to try makeup," she said. "You go in a store that has really beautiful yellow lights all around, and the lipstick or foundation looks different than it will at home. [The stores] should have lights that represent real life. Some architects now work with very specific lights, for instance with daylight, which is not so flattering — but I feel that it's better to be not flattering than to be disappointed. The woman will feel more comfortable afterward."
A muse of Yves Saint Laurent in the Sixties and Seventies, Deneuve is still very much a fashionista, and said she approves of the current direction of the iconic brand. "It's difficult to take the place of someone who is still living," said Deneuve. "It will take time, because there is a change of direction — yet there are archival influences, styles that Yves Saint Laurent himself might create today." She said that she is also quite fond of Marc Jacobs, and praises Prada for offering "incredibly couture details despite being ready-to-wear."
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty