Bonjour is preparing a reported $2 million marketing, advertising and in-store shop program to back its relaunch for holiday retailing.
Spearheaded by Carmine Porcelli, managing director of Bonjour, the first teaser ads break outdoor in August and will be followed by a print campaign in January.
Bonjour’s presence in the denim market has slipped considerably since its heyday in the Seventies and Eighties, when it was sold alongside labels like Sergio Valenti and Sasson, but it continued to build volume in mass channels and had sales as high as $450 million in 1997. Porcelli said the firm plans to relaunch the brand in department stores with a focus on the contemporary category.
Porcelli hired Susan Edinger, a former packaging director, as creative director to help market the brand; redesign the logo, hardware and trims; and create in-store shops, promotions and the ad campaign.
Creatively, Porcelli said, "We wanted to do something that wasn’t out there. We wanted to bring an edge to the brand. We wanted that David Lynch edge where you don’t know what’s going on. The campaign is very sexy and saturated in color."
The ads were photographed in the Rockaways, in Queens, by Dominique Palumbo. The shoot took place in a 1964 red Covair. "It’s about moving forward and travelling. They [the characters] don’t know where they’re going, but you want to go with them," said Porcelli.
Porcelli wanted to hire models who weren’t familiar to everyone. He signed on Danika and Lisa Davis, as well as Jason Muhlberger.
Before the shoot, Porcelli asked everyone involved to watch "Mulholland Drive," the David Lynch movie about a lost woman who has amnesia. Porcelli called the campaign "very dreamlike and unusual looking....I really wanted it to be like a movie. It was telling a story about this trip they’re taking. We don’t know where they’re going, but their trip continues."
Teaser ads break in August on billboards, phone kiosks and bus shelters in New York, and the print campaign will debut in January. A bus campaign will begin in August and run for 18 months in New York.Bonjour will be sold in such stores as Marshall Field’s, Dayton Hudson, Lord & Taylor, Nordstrom and Federated Department Stores. The sportswear line retails from $45 to $60 and is denim-driven, including related separates.
The imagery for the outdoor campaign is more image-driven than product driven. "For the magazines, it will be more product driven," he said.
Weaving a Way Into Jeans
George Linicomn Jr.’s paintings feature a criss-cross of lines, creating dozens of blank boxes on the canvas. The blank spots are there for a reason: When they’re installed in galleries, the explanatory card encourages viewers to write something in them. He calls it "participative art."
His latest form of expression is also participative, but in a different way. Linicomn is jumping into the jeans business.
"I’m trying to incorporate people into my designs," the Arlington, Tex.-based artist said in a phone interview.
Right now, he has one style of jeans, which on Tuesday landed a design patent from the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office. They are made by weaving together roughly two-inch-wide strips of denim. The strips are not sewn together, so they allow glimpses of skin to peek through the seams, though the jeans are lined around the crotch and Linicomn is working on a fully lined version.
The 30-year old has been trying to make a living as a painter and sculptor since graduating from Bauder Fashion College in 1992, but decided to start designing clothes because it seemed more remunerative.
"To be truthful, it’s very hard breaking into the art industry," he said. "I felt like it would be easier to use my creative abilities to come up with something new in the fashion industry and possibly later break into the art world."
His denim design was inspired by his painting. "The same lines that are in my artwork and now in those jeans," he said, referring to the lines formed by the interlocking strips of denim.
Linicomn plans to sell his jeans under the GEI name for about $150 wholesale. They’re made in China at a factory he found through a contact he met while working his day job in airline security. The contact, a hotel manager, moonlights as an import broker, according to Linicomn.Linicomn added that he’s working on another style of jeans that will be more interactive than the current ones.
"I’d like to do some woven jeans where the strips can be different colors and you could change them around," he said.
Nylon’s Denim Focus
Marvin Scott Jarrett, the editor in chief of Nylon magazine, passed a personal milestone this week. As of Tuesday, he had gone a week without wearing jeans.
He needed a break after spending the previous month drowning in denim, as he worked on Nylon’s August issue, which is dedicated to the fabric and jeanswear.
"It’s a palette to create your own personal style," he said of denim, "whether it’s jeans and flip-flops and a T-shirt or jeans and boots and a sport coat, there are so many different things you can use denim or jeans for to create an outward appearance."
In addition to fashion shoots and the obligatory timeline — starting in 1853 with Levi Strauss’s idea of riveting jeans (he’d been making unriveted denim pants for 20 years prior to that) and ending with Karl Lagerfeld’s unveiling of his svelter, jeans-wearing self this year — the 208-page issue issue includes interviews with Lagerfeld and with Diesel owner Renzo Rosso. It also includes a pullout insert listing the world’s top 100 places to buy jeans. Listed by geography and not by rank, the list includes stores from New York’s Canal Jeans Co., to the Gap flagship in San Francisco, to Mavi’s flagship in Istanbul. The issue hits newsstands on July 23.
While the issue may have seemed like overindulgence to Jarrett for a while, he acknowledged that he had jeans on again Tuesday night, after a week in sweatshorts.
"I needed to get a break from it, not only visually, but personally," he said after his hiatus from jeans wearing. "Now I want to do it again."
Avondale Back in Black
Cost-cutting moves allowed Avondale Inc. to return to profitability in the third quarter of its fiscal year, despite a 10.3 percent drop in sales, according to a recent filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission.The Monroe, Ga.-based company reported net income of $4.3 million for the quarter ended May 31, compared with a $527,000 net loss the prior-year quarter. Sales were $182.5 million, down from $203.4 million. Cost of goods dropped from 87.3 percent of sales to 83.3 percent. The closely held company discloses its results to the SEC because of public debt.
The firm said in the filing that weak demand for apparel fabrics hurt its results and noted that the relative strength of the dollar in comparison with Asian currencies during the quarter made its products less competitive than foreign imports. While adding that it expected business conditions to remain tough in its fourth fiscal quarter, Avondale added, "demand for the company’s products, particularly denim and yarns, has shown recent improvement and increased unit volume and pricing are anticipated."
The company’s biggest sales slip came in the yarn business, where revenues fell 23.7 percent, to $50 million, reflecting a drop in volume and selling price. The yarn unit recorded an $800,000 operating loss, compared with $1.9 million in operating income.
Apparel fabric sales fell 10.3 percent to $155 million, though operating income for that unit rose 71.9 percent, to $15.3 million. The company attributed the margin improvement to lower raw material costs.
Other revenues, including gray fabric sales and the company’s trucking business, rose 2.3 percent to $19.7 million, with operating income more than doubling to $1.9 million, from $700,000.
For the nine months, the mill recorded a $5.8 million net loss, which reflects $7 million in restructuring charges. In the prior-year nine-month period, the company reported $6.2 million in income. Sales fell 20.1 percent, to $465.2 million.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)