After years of focusing his business on an admittedly quixotic quest to popularize reversible jeans in the American market, designer Toshi Hosogai has tweaked his Chuck Roaste jeans line to downplay the patented concept.

For spring, 85 percent of his assortment will be in traditional single-sided jeans, a move the designer acknowledged was a concession to commercial realities.

He said he still believed in reversible jeans — and still holds the utility patent he received for them two years ago — but added, “It’s not the way of the American market.”

The problem, he contended, is a lack of salesmanship at retail.

“If people can’t explain to the customer why it’s valuable, it just doesn’t work,” he said. “It can sell, but you need to explain it. If you can explain it, it can sell.”

His current line is based around simple, slim jeans silhouettes that Hosogai said are intended to reflect styles of the Eighties. It includes three new core fits: a slim classic, a body-hugging superslim style and a version of the superslim with a slit at the ankle to work better with high-heeled shoes. The line still includes several styles of reversible jeans, as well as denim jackets, skirts and vests.

Wholesale prices now range from $50 to $89, a 15 percent cut from recent seasons, which Eileen Ward, co-owner of the Prophet showroom that started representing the line this month, said was another concession to commercial realities.

The line is made in New York, but washed in California. There are four core washes, three in varying shades of lightness and one with a wrinkle treatment. Hosogai said he focused on simple washes because, “I don’t like extremes, I like sophisticated.”

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