Notify Gets Casual With Nfy Maurice Ohayon, creator of Notify, the Paris-based premium denim line, is showing his more casual side this spring with Nfy, a less-dressy, lower-priced denim collection.
"The first difference, for me, is the cut of the jean," Ohayon said in a phone interview from Paris through a translator. "We were looking for a different attitude. It's slightly cooler, more relaxed and a bit more casual."
Since its launch in spring 2004, Notify has featured sleek, tailored styles that shied away from distressed washes and embellishments. Nfy, on the other hand, will focus on intricate handiwork, looser fits, embellishments and advanced wash treatments.
"I'm able to play around a little bit more," Ohayon said. "The guidelines are not so fixed."
The collection consists of five bodies that are slouchier than Notify styles, with some featuring large pleated cuffs at the ankle. Washes range from a dirty blue to a blue green.
"The bodies are a bit more broken," Ohayon said.
"We were more aggressive in the treatment of these pants," said Christophe Desmaison, owner of CD Network, a showroom based at 4 West 22nd Street in Manhattan that handles the North American sales for Notify and Nfy.
Nfy will be manufactured in Italy by Romano SpA, owners and manufacturers of the premium denim brand Meltin' Pot.
"They have a whole system set up and we're really using their strength," Desmaison said.
The bulk of the Nfy collection has a wholesale price range of between $79 and $89, which is about 20 percent lower than Notify. A few styles, such as one with myriad embroidered skulls on the back pocket, could wholesale for as much as $119.
The collection will hit department stores and speciality boutiques in the U.S., France, Italy and Japan by mid-January. Ohayon predicts the wholesale volume of Nfy will reach $5 million in the U.S. next year. — Lauren DeCarlo
A Capital on Premium As the premium market evolves, Levi's, the granddaddy of the denim world, has decided to create a new home for its premium collection and increase the focus on the line called Levi's Capital E, launching for spring."Basically, we went back and looked at Levi's through the decades and looked at the special and unique qualities like the stitchings and imperfections," said Carl Chiara, design director of Capital E. "The beauty of it is that everything was one-of-a-kind. Jeans weren't mass produced in the Thirties, Forties and Fifties and we wanted to capture that."
One way to capture that aesthetic was to have the jeans hand-stitched. It takes 15 workers to create one pair of jeans in the Levi's Capital E collection, and each pair takes one full day to make. The wash techniques add another 24 to 48 hours.
"We're also using single needle applications, which take twice as long to sew," Chiara said. "The spacing isn't always perfect, which gives a very crafted, unique look."
Levi's has an existing premium collection called Levi's Premium, which will be phased out in the spring. The Capital E collection will replace it.
There are about 10 styles in the Capital E collection, including the Ruler, a low, long, lean straight cut; the Offender, a one-button ultra low-rise style; the Ambler, a relaxed boot cut, and the classic 501 Original Jean, the basic five-pocket, button-fly style. Washes range from a clean, dark blue wash to a vintage-inspired, slightly worn-in wash. Denim shorts, vests and miniskirts are also part of the collection.
The collection will hit specialty stores like Barneys New York and Neiman Marcus in January. The wholesale price range is between $70 and $150, with most styles hovering around $200.
Jeans in Levi's Capital E collection are constructed from fabrics from the U.S., Turkey and Japan and are sewn in North Carolina and Texas. Buttons feature turquoise, and the tiny red label on the back pocket simply illustrates a capital block-letter "E." — L.D.
Levi's Heads for the Stars Levi's Atelier is the latest example of stylish solicitude. The showroom, which the jeans manufacturer opened last month on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles, is its first geared to stars and VIPs.
The purpose of the Atelier, according to the company, is to offer flawless service and products to celebrity and VIP clients. It also will serve stylists.Sheri Timmons, who oversees entertainment and presence marketing for Levi's, said, "We had so many requests and we were servicing them from our L.A. store on Beverly Drive. It became overwhelming."
The company renovated a 1,800-square-foot space, leaving exposed-wood beams on the ceiling and hardwood floors. There's a rough-elegant juxtaposition with crystal chandeliers, plush corduroy couches and animal-skin rugs.
"We have about 10 or 15 stylists a day pulling from our stock," Timmons said. "We've increased by 20 to 30 percent the amount of people we're able to service."
The Atelier stocks premium lines such as Levi's vintage clothing, Red Tab and Silver Tab. It also uses the space to launch new brands.
Melissa Etheridge brought her favorite pair of Levi's jeans, which were worn and no longer fit, to the Atelier, which repaired and refit them, Timmons said, adding: "For Vince Vaughn, we try to get the longest lengths we make. Johnny Depp wears the Skinner Jean. We had to track it down for him."
The company also customizes jeans with embroidery and crystals.
For fall, Timmons sees jeans moving in two directions: away from boot cut toward very dark stiletto-leg jeans and, at the other extreme, ragged, holey jeans with lots of patches.
Timmons stressed the Atelier's job is not to raise revenue, but rather to raise Levi's profile.
"We're doing this as a service based on demand," she said. "We'll judge its success by the traffic it brings, the number of calls and the demand of people asking for products." — Sharon Edelson
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)