“Unpretentious but rigorous,” said Derek Lam before his spring show that took cues from classic American sportswear, specifically his idol Claire McCardell.He achieved his goal in a fabulous trench, entirely patchworked from a pale striped ticking. And Lam continued his upgrade of humble fabrics by piecing them together with silks in loose blouses and dresses and cutting sturdier ones into slouchy pants and paper-bag skirts. He balanced the plainer elements with some serious chic, especially in covetable coats, including a sublime suede number. Evening was at its best in Lam’s classic Grecian gowns. But in the end, it was the details — a buzzed-about handbag collection, plus shoe and sunglass collections — that attest to Lam’s skyward arc.To view Derek Lam's full Spring 2007 Collection, click here.

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