LOS ANGELES — Designer Jared Gold, whose following for his darkly whimsical and offbeat women’s and men’s wear stretches from Tokyo to London and has made him a key figure of the fledgling Los Angeles designer community, has found a...
LOS ANGELES — Designer Jared Gold, whose following for his darkly whimsical and offbeat women’s and men’s wear stretches from Tokyo to London and has made him a key figure of the fledgling Los Angeles designer community, has found a financial backer in some of his long-time fans.
Gold has entered into a partnership with Nadine and John Macaluso of California Concepts, a Gardenia, Calif.-based manufacturer of mass kids and women’s wear with sales in excess of $100 million to retailers such as Wal-Mart, Target and Sears.
But neither Black Chandelier nor the Jared Gold Signature brand — which have had success since its launch in 1995 at Fred Segal Melrose and Barneys New York, among others — are headed for those channels, both sides stressed.
Nadine Macaluso began buying Jared Gold at Barneys, where she also sells a better maternity line under the Nadine Caridi Co. label, also produced by California Concepts. The new partners intend to keep the signature line at the young designer level, while strengthening the position of the young contemporary-junior-skewed Black Chandelier line, which bowed last spring.
"We just felt Jared has such an approach to clothing which we hadn’t seen in the market," she said in an exclusive interview Thursday. "He has just such a completely different perspective. We just needed each other."
John Macaluso concurred. "We’re hoping with his talent and our financial backing we can make this happen the way it should go. He’s been doing it so long on his own, it’s time for him to break out."
The joint partnership allows Gold to retain merchandising and design control of the two lines. The newly created LLC is called La Belle et La Bette (translation: Beauty and the Beast).
Combined, the lines could do about $10 million in sales in 2003, believes John Macaluso. That’s a leap from where the line was before: in 2001, the signature line had sales of $400,000. "We’re very excited about the whole prospect of blowing him up."
Gold added that he’s looking to position his namesake line, which aims to continue pricing at retail between $100 and $700, in just under 100 key better doors in the first year, while "doing volume" with Black Chandelier, which will top at $200 retail, in more than 250 doors.The deal, signed last week, comes at the end of a long summer of secret talks with various suitors. Just as Gold was about to sign with one interested party, his friend and publicist Lee Trimble (also known here for her leadership with the Coalition of Los Angeles Designers) put him in touch with the Macalusos. "They just knew who I was," Gold enthused in a telephone interview from New York. "The negotiations were very short and really friendly."
The designer took the red-eyeWednesday night to meet with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week organizers on the encouragement of his new partners. He will show both lines at the Pavilion at Bryant Park on Sept. 22 at noon.
Gold’s shows have always been an anticipated highlight of fashion week here, involving the kind of high jinks theatrics, from fire eaters to human puppets, that could come alive in an Edward Gorey nightmare. For his New York debut last Sept. 9, he and his mother did a classical duet as models glided by in the ballroom at the Gramercy Park Hotel.
The Bryant Park show is a first not only for Gold but his partners. Separate showrooms for each line in New York and Los Angeles will also be in place.
"We want to go into designer contemporary, the co-ops, the fifth floor of Bergdorfs — where fashion is more affordable," said Nadine. "At this economy, that’s where the traffic is."
The economy is another reason why the deal is such a great idea, said Julie Gilhart, vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York. "I always think it’s good when a designer who’s as creative as Jared gets some investment to be able to do what they want to do. Young designers lines in general sometimes have trouble maintaining consistency because of their financial status. They’re truly the ones affected when the economy isn’t doing well."
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews