NEW YORK -- Services for Sally Milgrim, who designed women's apparel starting just after World War I and was active in retailing until the Sixties, will be conducted today at 2 p.m. at Mt. Lebanon Cemetery in Glendale, N.Y.

Milgrim died Saturday at the St. Francis Barry nursing home in Miami at the age of 104.

The cause of death was respiratory failure, according to her son Franklin.

At the turn of the century, Milgrim's late husband, Charles, his father and two brothers, operated a women's custom suit business here. Shortly after World War I, she joined the business as a dress designer.

In the Twenties, when the business evolved as a retail operation called Milgrim's on West 57th Street here, Sally Milgrim continued as the apparel designer for the growing company. Eventually, there were about 10 stores, her son said. During her career, Milgrim, who was a friend of impresario Florenz Ziegfeld, designed clothing for such entertainers as Marilyn Miller, Sophie Tucker, Mary Pickford, Pearl White and Ethel Merman, and for politicians' wives, including Eleanor Roosevelt. For the inauguration of Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1933, Milgrim designed a pale blue floor-length ballgown for the new First Lady. It is in the collection of the Smithsonian Institution.

Milgrim remained active in the firm until around 1960 when she retired. Many of the stores closed during the Seventies and Eighties. The last operating store, which was in Cleveland, closed in 1990.

Also surviving are another son, Paul; a brother, Louis Knobel; five grandchildren, and six great-grandchildren.

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