By  on September 11, 2007

PARIS — Where better to sniff out clues about next fall's collections than at their starting points? Here, designers and buyers offer glimpses into their shopping baskets as they get ready to head to Première Vision:

Christian Wijnants, designer

Shopping for: "Wool tailoring fabrics and coat fabrics, silks, printed velvet or devoré, sporty cotton for pants, fancy embroidered things and, of course, jersey in wool, viscose, Modal and cotton."

New directions: "Techno, shiny, new touch, but very high-quality fibers, nothing too synthetic."

New focus: "Jersey and silk."

Budget: "Up by 5 to 10 percent."

Climate change: "We don't buy as many heavy fabrics as we did four to five years ago."

Giles Deacon, designer

Shopping for: "As I use Première Vision for additional elements, I try to keep an open mind about where to go, though I seem to end up in the fantasy section every season."

New directions: "Eco-friendly has to be a way forward. The great thing is that [manufacturers] are now becoming more precise in their execution. We always try to develop new techniques and manipulations with the fabrics that we use, trying to make them more personal and unique."

Budget: "[It's] always increasing, thank God, generally by 20 percent each season."

Climate change: "Climate change is an ongoing design dilemma. Do not think you have it all under wraps yet."

Kaito Hori, designer for Commuun

Shopping for:
"Organic fabrics, natural fabrics, fancy fabrics, especially jersey."

New directions: "Techno, eco-friendly. [The industry] needs to develop techniques to make not only natural, but also high-quality fabrics because often natural fibers are difficult to treat."

Budget: "Up 300 percent."Climate change: "We prefer to take lighter fabrics. Clothing is becoming seasonless."

Camilla Emilsson-Falk, spokeswoman for Hennes & Mauritz

Shopping for: "We don't really decide on what to look out for, but try to keep an open mind and get inspired."

New directions: "Eco-friendly and technological, wishfully in perfect harmony."

Climate change: "We still work around the four seasons: spring, high summer, fall and winter holiday."

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