NEW YORK — Textiles have always inspired seasonal collections and designers are ramping up the love affair for spring, allowing fabric and print trends to have a new level of influence.
Oscar de la Renta, for instance, is a master with structured fabrics, like the laminated tweeds from his fall collection. But he has also shown skill with softer-edged materials such as the chiné taffeta in his most recent resort collection. This spring, he will combine the two ideas.
"My spring collection will feature very tailored looks," said de la Renta. "But there is an emphasis on more relaxed, stretch fabrics that allow for an ease of movement."
This combination of ideas is expected to be prevalent on a lot of spring runways. A dichotomy of concepts in color palettes and in fabrics have infiltrated the season. Beginning with textile design shows in January, spring's traditional, floating pastels have shared the limelight with fall-like, grounded color themes.
"My patterns and fabrics are inspired by a palette of richly saturated, rustic hues," said de la Renta of his spring collection.
But it isn't an exact science. When designers take inspiration from the season's fabric trends, it is in their individual executions that the element of surprise is preserved.
"Oftentimes, at exhibitions, another designer and I will paw at the same swatch," said Hervé Pierre, design director at Carolina Herrera. "But the way I cook the material, versus the way they will cook it, will create collections with vastly different flavors."
The industry's leading designers are intensely secretive about the fabrics they use and the looks they'll be showing, making it difficult to predict what the shows will bring. However, a group of new, forward-thinking designers are betting on the hybrid model.
At Gen Art, where successful collections like Zac Posen, Chaiken and Rebecca Taylor were first promoted, designers are experimenting with material blends and cross-seasonal concepts.
At Delphyne Guiraud, the French designer plans to show directional fabrics like a rayon lattice over reflective iridescent silk netting. And spring jackets in merino wool and silk velvet accent more traditional silk chiffon and crepe de chine at Bensoni."Our designers have a very strong definition of their style. For many of them, part of that is these innovative fabrics and combinations," said Lee Trimble, fashion director at Gen Art. "We're very interested to see how these ideas will translate onto the runway."
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)