Where once they only used to sing about diamonds as their best friends, there now are more women designing jewelry collections than ever before.

This story first appeared in the January 27, 2003 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

Perhaps the trend was triggered by Coco Chanel when she presented her Bijoux de Diamants diamond jewelry collection in her mansion on the rue Faubourg-Saint Honoré in Paris in 1932, but during the second half of the last century, women have steered the creative direction of several jewelry firms. From Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso at Tiffany & Co. to Victoire de Castellane at Christian Dior, Solange Azagury-Partridge at Boucheron and Jade Jagger at Garrard, some of the most iconic jewelry today is designed by women. There are also many women who have branched out on their own to launch their own companies and fulfill their creative visions.