Custo Dalmau marched to his own beat for Custo Barcelona…Tess Giberson showed Summer-of-Love looks…and Richard Chai went ladylike and minimal.
Custo Barcelona: Since designer Custo Dalmau always shows dozens of combinations of his signature prints, colors and textures, the Custo Barcelona collection can be a little overwhelming on the runway. It’s all just so darn much. But Dalmau, who’s Spanish, is clearly doing something right. His collection does well internationally. He has 22 stores worldwide and plans to open five more in the U.S. by the end of the year, to add the current three in New York, Chicago and Santa Fe.
The collection Dalmau showed on Friday was titled, “Summer as a Journey,” and it had a get-up-and-go feeling perfect for a quick jaunt. There were lots of spring coats, easy T-shirts and pretty printed skirts and shorts, many accessorized with matching caps or umbrellas. The best pieces were the delightful cotton pique trenches in white, lime, aqua and pink, many with Victorian-style raised shoulders or a contrast yoke in back. Nylon or cotton windbreakers with a retro feel looked sweet, too, with tiny ruffles on the pockets or shoulders.
Richard Chai: To fashion insiders, Richard Chai is far from being a new name. They knew him first as a designer at Marc Jacobs and then as one of the creative forces who passed through the revolving doors at Tse. Still, Chai’s Saturday show was his first effort under his own name.
The designer offered up a line of clothes for the the sophisticated, yet individual girl that so many seem to want to dress this season. Although Chai’s tailored, ladylike silhouettes — pencil skirts, skinny pants, belted jackets and ultralight knit — aren’t exactly unfamiliar, the designer worked them in a minimal and not-quite-sweet way that made his collection distinctive. For starters, he picked up a thread from the Space Age story that he started to tell with his last collection at Tse for fall 2003. How does lady go techno? In some cases, it’s done by cutting an old-standby, such as the pencil skirt, in layers of organza for an ethereal effect. And yet in others, the newness comes in the form of slight tweaks on traditional shapes, such as the sharpened shoulder and half-sleeve on a crisp white cotton jacket belted with raw-edged ribbon. The mostly pale, restrained palette and lack of embellishment also contributed to the cause.It’s certainly tough to find a unique voice in increasingly crowded arena, but Chai is well on his way.
Atil Kutoglu: Atil Kutoglu’s collection was much improved this season. The line is more focused now, and the designer also distanced himself from the Turkish motifs he emphasized in earlier collections, which limited their appeal. Fabric and material choices set the tone. There was a terrific striped cotton sheeting, for example, that was cut into a cute pair of shorts, evoking the spirit of chic American sportswear. Crushed silk gave a touch of antiquity to the Grecian-inspired, lace-detailed beige column and the material also worked well in the black high-waisted number with split kimono sleeves. While Kutoglu’s inventive use of leather in dresses, coats and tops was a significant part of the collection, it wasn’t the most impressive. Instead, it was his breezy, effortless looks that had the most impact, such as the swingy, gold-and-blue brocade vest worn over a cotton shirtdress and the brocade blazer paired with an easy, cropped jumpsuit.
Tess Giberson: In a world that’s currently dominated by the eclectic-lady look, designer Tess Giberson’s sweetly ethereal collection was like a light, cool downtown sorbet. In spite of the designer’s artsy-craftsy reputation and the generally bohemian silhouettes, she avoided the associations that usually accompany those terms. Instead, the mostly white and pale gray collection, accessorized by Ninh Wysocan’s beautiful jewelry, felt fresh. In fact, the long and loose dresses — some detailed with trapunto seaming or lines of rickrack — cool, slouchy pants; tops, and skirts would be a perfect wardrobe for the city-dweller whose tastes coincide with the aesthetics of the Summer of Love. And, as retailers know, there’s no shortage of them.
Charles Alexander: When Charles Alexander showed his spring collection, it was easy to picture Alicia Silverstone’s character in “Clueless,” Cher, assembling umpteen possible outfits for the first day of school. That’s because the designer displayed a similar giddy enthusiasm, and it was clear that he had a hard time choosing looks for what the show notes called “a mad dash around the world.” Alexander’s background is in made-to-order — he has been the in-house couture designer at Bergdorf Goodman for two years and, before that, was creative director at Maggie Norris Couture. But, while Alexander clearly has talent and taste, he has not yet grasped the notion of creating a cohesive collection. That said, there were beautiful pieces here, such as neatly tailored silk print blouses; high-waisted printed linen skirts; drop-waisted silk and linen ball skirts, and a striking embossed, black leather jacket. Now he has to refine those lovely elements into a cohesive whole.
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye