Christian Dior: Thank-you, John. Thank-you. Thank-you. Thank-you. Thank-you. Thank-you. Who hasn’t longed for John Galliano to stage an antic-free Christian Dior collection focused solely on his fabulous clothes?
In the weeks preceding Galliano’s show for the house on Tuesday, rumors buzzed that this would be it — a full-on celebration of honest-to-goodness real clothes, clothes for women to buy and wear by day as well as night, the better to flaunt the designing side of his genius. (He reminds us constantly of the showmanship side.)
In most walks of life, such information would be met with a quizzical, “Huh?” But for those of us in fashion, this is big news. Retailers and editors long ago grew itchy for a change, and Galliano knew it. Perhaps because of such outside urging or internal pressure, if such existed, or maybe simply because he felt ready to move on, he decided finally to change his m.o. for spring. In fact, he had hinted at the change with his jacket initiative for November delivery, with ads featuring Riley Keough set to break in December magazines. The shift exploded into full flower on the runway, without compromising a bit of the Galliano essence. He put his fancy, his guts, his joie de mode, his remarkable imagination and skill all on proud display, and it made for gleeful viewing.
An idea-a-minute man, Galliano presented the collection in four sections inspired variously by Keough, Kirsten Dunst, Kate Moss and Gisele Bündchen, some more obviously than others. But no matter the clarity of source, the core message tolled loudly from the first look out, a denim-trimmed ivory bouclé suit fluffed up with little wafts of fringe: These are real times chez Dior.
Galliano offered a gentle mix of tailoring and flou in combinations unfettered enough to allow the audience to take in at least some of the intricate glories of the clothes: a crocheted cardigan and organza dress, both trimmed with ribbons; a coat made of alternating bands of white leather and lace over a bouclé dress; an A-line dream coat in floral-embroidered denim. He went sweet with those mixes of knits, flowers and lace; feisty with tight, bright Barbie argyles, and even tough with megaspangled tailoring, perhaps the show’s only jarring note. But then, he had a point to make: There is no one Dior woman; rather, wildly diverse types can turn to the house for their fashion fill. And that includes satiating their ever-expanding accessories yen, most notably with his terrific bag-of-the-season candidate, a roomy two-pocket affair with a square, zip-off bottom, overstuffed with chic and functionality.Galliano finished with a flower-child brigade, some of whom worked chichi jackets atypical of the original Scarborough Fair set. Others wore Ts decorated with the slogan, “Dior not war.” This made for a bit of irony as, while the designer flashed his antiwar message from the runway, outside the tent, his steadfast antifur foes protested his work. But whatever one’s politics, there’s no arguing Dior’s new showtime platform, one that will translate so beautifully at retail come spring.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)