Guess whose celebrity fashion moment has come? None other than the Devil himself. First the book, then the movie, and on Wednesday afternoon, John Galliano’s haute couture collection for Christian Dior.
Galliano found inspiration in “Les Visiteurs du Soirs,” a 1942 film fantasy based on a medieval legend in which, peeved by excessive goodness on Earth, Old Scratch sends along two traveling minstrels to a garden to mean things up a bit. Suffice to say the plan works like an evil-eye charm — at least on the runway. Which is not to say his models looked like Hell; only that, for all their ornate, indulgent accoutrements, they looked unpretty and woefully sad.
Perhaps after his real-clothes-for-the-American-masses resort show in New York, Galliano wanted to re-embrace the high theatricality and nerve-twisting escapades of which he is master.
And just like back in the day, his program notes offered motley references — Joan of Arc, Hollywood, punk, Salvador Dali and, most puzzling, Botticelli, who seemed curiously MIA. But unlike in the designer’s early days, when every extravaganza brought a gorgeous visual feast, this time the effort felt pointlessly heavy-handed and angry.
Still, the collection was magnificent in its opulence. Couture has always been about overstatement, now more so than ever, when most clothing sales are of the color-me-practical pre-season ilk. Galliano pulled out all of the haute stops and then some, embroidering, bejeweling, hand-painting and feathering to stunning perfection. These flourishes decorated draped dresses that were almost lovely but for their fierce armor appendages, as well as ruched, bustled piles of runaway fabric masquerading as ballgowns, some bigger than a Smart Car. But no matter, since nothing presented will see the light of reality.
Among those taking it all in were Drew Barrymore, Liv Tyler, Mischa Barton and Mia Maestro. Then there was Cher, whose presence channeled Bob Mackie oh so pointedly. While Galliano owes a huge debt to the famed and maligned costumer, he might yet pick up a pointer or two about fashion showmanship. Number one, for example: Sometimes, it’s nice to make the wearer look attractive and the viewer smile.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)