PARIS — Without any bias toward bias cutting, there’s more to John Galliano than drop-dead evening gowns.
That’s a message Christian Dior wants to send this winter by making jackets — curvy and lightly padded — the major statement for its first spring deliveries in late November.
And the French fashion house is putting major star power behind the project. Riley Keough, a budding model who’s the daughter of Lisa Marie Presley and Elvis’ granddaughter, will star in a special jacket-focused campaign, lensed by Nick Knight and styled by Galliano. The spots are expected to break in December fashion magazines in what is described as a “significant” worldwide campaign.
“The objective is to push the day part of ready-to-wear,” said Dior president Sidney Toledano. “John is so famous for gowns, all the casual collections and the knitwear. We want to make a real statement with the jacket because the story of the house starts with tailoring.”
Toledano stressed that Galliano himself was behind the initiative — and to be sure, the designer has been featuring many jackets, sometimes in extreme proportions, in recent collections. It marks a shift for a designer known more for theatricality than nine-to-five dressing.
Toledano said the jacket effort illustrates how couture know-how translates into rtw, as Galliano applied many techniques to the fitting, detailing and finishing of the garments, which are reminiscent of some of the house’s most famous styles.
But they have a strong contemporary edge, from a tiny piercing on the top silver button of a Prince of Wales number to numerous denim styles, some with utility pockets, others with sequin-edged floral appliqués. Fabric options include leather, suede, camouflage print and the signature Dior logo denim.
Toledano declined to pinpoint the results of a summer wholesale effort, but characterized the jackets as “plus” business that helped propel a double-digit gain for the season.
Retail prices for the jackets range from 855 euros, or $1,042 at current exchange, for a jean jacket to 1,816 euros, or $2,213, for a Prince of Wales checked version, to 4,868 euros, or $5,934, for a style with sequins and embroidery.— Miles Socha
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia